.Ws 



PACKING AND 
PORTAGING 

BY DILLON WALLACE 





Class 



i-r 



I >o '^ 



Book 



Goipghtlj". 



CDPyRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



PACKING AND PORTAGING 



PACKING AND 
PORTAGING 



BY 

DILLON WALLACE 

Author of "The Lure of the Labrador Wild," "The 

Long Labrador Trail," "Saddle and Camp in 

the Rockies," "Across the Mexican 

Sierras," etc. 



HANDBOOKS 




NEW YORK 

OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 
MCMXII 



^ 



v.^' 



sll 



t 



Copyright, 1912, by 
OUTING PUBLISHING COMPANY 



All rights reserved 



g.CI.A327361 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PACt 

I. Packing and the Outfit . 9 

II. The Canoe and Its Equipment 12 

III. Camp Equipment for the 

Canoe Trip 15 

IV. Personal Equipment ... 23 
V. Food 31 

VI. The Portage 38 

VII. Travel with Saddle and Pack 

Animals 51 

VIII. Saddle and Pack Equipment ^6 
IX. Personal Outfit for the 

Saddle 64 

X. Adjusting the Pack ... 71 

XL Some Practical Hitches . 77 
XII. Traveling Without A Pack 

Horse loi 

XIII. Afoot in Summer . . . 106 

XIV. With Snowshoes and Tobog- 

gan no 

XV. With Dogs and Komatik . 123 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAOe 

Method of Slinging Load on Aparejo 58, 59 

Sling for Racking on Crosstree Saddle 74 

Squaw or Crosstree Hitch ... 79, 80 

The Crosstree Diamond Hitch . . 82, 83 

United States Army Diamond Hitch 85, 86 

Lifting Hitch 93^ 94 

Stirrup Hitch 96 

Saddle Hitch 97 



PACKING AND 
PORTAGING 

CHAPTER I 

PACKING AND THE OUTFIT 

ORDINARILY the verb to pack means 
to stow articles snugly Into receptacles, 
but In the parlance of the trail It often 
means to carry or transport the articles from 
place to place. The pack in the language of 
the trail Is the load a man or horse carries. 

Likewise, a portage on a canoe route Is a 
break between navigable waters, over which 
canoe and outfit must be carried; or the word 
may be used as a verb, and one may say, " I 
will portage the canoe,'' meaning " I will carry 
the canoe." In the course of the following 
pages these terms will doubtless all be used In 
their various significations. 

Save for the few who are able to employ a 
retinue of professional guides and packers to 
attend to the details of transportation, the one 

9 



lo PACKING AND PORTAGING 

chief problem that confronts the wilderness 
traveler is that of how to reduce the weight 
of his outfit to the minimum with the least 
possible sacrifice of comfort. It Is only the 
veriest tenderfoot that deliberately endures 
hardships or discomforts where hardships and 
discomforts are unnecessary. Experienced 
wilderness travelers always make themselves 
as comfortable as conditions will permit, and 
there Is no reason why one who hits the trail 
for sport, recreation or health should do other- 
wise. 

In a description, then, of the methods of 
packing and transporting outfits the tenderfoot 
and even the man whose feet are becoming cal- 
loused may welcome some hints as to the selec- 
tion of compact, light, but, at the same time, ef- 
ficient outfits. These hints on outfitting, there- 
fore, I shall give, leaving out of consideration 
the details of camp making, camp cookery and 
those phases of woodcraft that have no direct 
bearing upon the prime question of packing and 
transportation on the trail. 

Let us classify the various methods of wild- 
erness travel under the following heads: i. 
By Canoe; 2. With Saddle and Pack Animals; 
3. Afoot in Summer; 4. On Snowshoes; 5. 
With Dogs and Sledge. Taking these in or- 
(der, and giving our attention first to canoe 



PACKING AND THE OUTFIT ii 

travel, it will be found convenient further to 
subdivide this branch of the subject and dis- 
cuss In order: (a) The Canoe and Its Equip- 
ment; (b) Camp Equipment for a Canoe 
Trip; (c) Personal Equipment; (d) Food; 
(e) The Portage. 



CHAPTER n 

THE CANOE AND ITS EQUIPMENT 

A SIXTEEN-FOOT canoe with a width 
of at least 33 inches and a depth of at 
least 12 Inches will accommodate two 
men, an adequate camping outfit and a full ten 
weeks' provisions very nicely, and at the same 
time not lie too deep In the water. A fifteen- 
foot canoe, unless it has a beam of at least 35 
Inches and a depth of 12 Inches or more. Is 
unsuitable. Three men with their outfit and 
provisions will require an eighteen-foot canoe 
with a width of 35 inches or more and a depth 
of no less than 13 Inches, or a seventeen-foot 
canoe with a width of 37 inches and 13 inches 
deep. The latter size is lighter by from ten 
to fifteen pounds than the former, while the 
displacement Is about equal. 

The best all-around canoe for cruising and 
hard usage Is the canvas-covered cedar canoe. 
Both ribs and planking should be of cedar, and 
only full length planks should enter into the 

I? 



THE CANOE 13 

construction. Where short planking is used 
the canoe will sooner or later become hogged 
— that is, the ends will sag downward from the 
middle. 

In Canada the " Peterborough " canoe is 
more largely used than the canvas-covered. 
These are to be had in both basswood and 
cedar. Cedar is brittle, while basswood is 
tough, but the latter absorbs water more read- 
ily than the former and in time will become 
more or less waterlogged. 

Cruising canoes should be supplied with a 
middle thwart for convenient portaging. Any 
canoe larger than sixteen feet should have 
three thwarts. To lighten weight on the por- 
tage, and provide more room for storing outfit. 
It is advisable to remove the cane seats with 
which canvas canoes are usually provided. 
This can be readily done by unscrewing the 
nuts beneath the gunwale which hold the seats 
in position. 

Good strong paddles — sufficiently strong to 
withstand the heavy strain to which cruising 
paddles are put — should be selected. On the 
portage they must bear the full weight of the 
canoe; they will frequently be utilized in pol- 
ing up stream against stiff currents; and in run- 
ning rapids they will be subjected to rough 
usage. On extended cruises it is advisable to 



14 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

carry one spare paddle to take the place of 
one that may be rendered useless. 

Experienced canoemen pole up minor rapids. 
Poles for this purpose can usually be cut at the 
point where they are needed, but pole "shoes " 
— that is, spikes fitted with ferrules— to fit on 
the ends of poles are a necessary adjunct to 
the outfit where poling is to be done. With- 
out shoes to hold the pole firmly on the bot- 
tom of the stream the pole may slip and pitch 
the canoeman overboard. The ferrules should 
be punctured with at least two nail holes, by 
which they may be secured to the poles, and 
a few nails should be carried for this purpose. 

A hundred feet or so of half=inch rope 
should also be provided, to be used as a track- 
ing line and the various other uses for which 
rope may be required. 



CHAPTER III 

CAMP EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP 

PERSONAL likes and prejudices have 
much to do with the form of tent chosen. 
My own preference Is for either the "A" 
or wedge tent, with the Hudson's Bay model as 
second choice, for general utility. Either of 
these is particularly adapted also to winter 
travel where the tent must often be pitched 
upon the snow. If, however, the tent Is only 
to be used In summer, and particularly In canoe 
travel where a light, easily erected model Is 
desired, the Frazer tent Is both Ideal for com- 
fort and Is an exceedingly light weight model 
for portaging. 

Duck or drill tents are altogether too heavy 
and quite out of date. They soak water and 
are an abomination on the portage. The best 
tent Is one of balloon silk, tanalite, or of extra 
light green waterproofed tent cloth. The bal- 
loon silk tent is very slightly heavier than 
either of the others, but Is exceedingly durable. 
For instance, ay 1-3x7 1-3 foot " A " tent of 

15 



1 6 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

either tanalite or extra light green waterproof 
tent cloth, fitted with sod cloth, complete, 
weighs eight pounds, while a similar tent of 
waterproof balloon silk weighs nine pounds. 
A Hudson's Bay model, 6x9 feet, weighs re- 
spectively seven and seven and one-half pounds. 

These three cloths are not only waterproof 
and practically rot proof, but do not soak 
water, which is a feature for consideration 
where much portaging is to be done and camp 
Is moved almost daily. 

Some dealers recommend that customers 
going Into a fly or mosquito country have 
the tent door fitted with bobbinet. The idea 
is good, but cheese cloth Is much cheaper and 
incomparably better than bobbinet. 

The cheese-cloth door should be made rather 
full, and divided at the center from tent peak 
to ground, with numerous tie strings to bring 
the edges tight together when in use, and other 
strings or tapes on either side, where it is at- 
tached to the tent, to reef or roll and tie It back 
out of the way when not needed. 

When purchasing a light-weight tent, see 
that the dealer supplies a bag of proper size 
In which to pack It. 

A pack cloth 6x7 feet In size, of brown 
waterproof canvas weighing about 3 1-2 pounds, 
makes an excellent covering for the tent floor 



EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP 17 

at night. On the portage blankets and odds 
and ends will be packed and carried on it. If 
one end and the two sides of the pack cloth 
are fitted with snap buttons it may be converted 
into a snug sleeping bag with a pair of blan- 
kets folded lengthwise, the bottom and sides 
of the blanket secured with blanket safety pins 
as a lining for the bag. 

My standby for summer camping is a fine 
all-wool gray blanket 72x78 inches in size 
and weighing 5 1-2 pounds. This I have found 
sufficient even in frosty autumn weather — al- 
ways, in fact, until the weather grows cold 
enough to freeze streams and close them to 
canoe navigation. Used as a lining for the 
improvised pack cloth sleeping bag, this blan- 
ket is quite bedding enough and makes an ex- 
ceedingly comfortable bed, too. 

A three-quarter axe with a 24- or 28-inch 
handle makes a mighty good camp axe. A 
full axe is heavy and inconvenient to portage 
and the lighter axe will serve every purpose in 
any country at any time. Personally I favor 
the Hudson's Bay axe. This may be had fitted 
either with a 24-inch or i8-inch handle. In 
the two-party outfit which we are discussing 
there should be two axes, one of which may 
be fitted with the shorter handle, but the other 
should have at least a 24- and preferably a 



i^ PACKING AND PORTAGING 

28-Inch handle. Every axe should have a 
leather sheath or scabbard for convenient pack- 
ing. The so-called pocket axes are too small 
to be of practical use. The camper does not 
wish to miss the luxury of the big evening 
camp-fire, and he can never provide for It with 
a small hatchet or toy pocket axe. 

Cooking utensils of aluminum alloy are the 
lightest and best for the trail. Tin and Iron 
will rust, enamel ware will chip, and unalloyed 
aluminum Is too soft and bends out of shape. 
The best sporting goods dealers carry complete 
outfits of aluminum alloy. I have used them 
in the frigid North and in the tropics. In canoe, 
sledging, tramping and horseback journeys, 
and can recommend them unequivocally, save 
perhaps the frying pan. 

The two-man cooking and dining outfit 
should contain the following utensils: 

I Pot with cover 7x6>4 Inches, capacity three quarts. 

I Coffee pot 6x6% inches, capacity two quarts. 

I Steel frying pan 9%x2 inches, with folding handle. 

1 Pan 9x3 inches, with folding handle, for mixing- and 
dish-pan. 

2 Plates 8% inches diameter. 
2 Cups. 

2 Aluminum alloy forks. 

2 Dessert spoons. 

I Large cooking spoon. 

1 Dish mop. 

2 Dish towels. 

The regular aluminum alloy cup Is too 



EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP 19 

small for practical camp use. There is an 
aluminum bowl, however, holding one pint, but 
without a handle. This is about the right size 
for a practical cup, and I have a handle riveted 
on It and use It as a cup. The top only of the 
handle should be attached, that the cups may 
set one Inside the other. The heat conducting 
quality of aluminum makes It a question 
whether or not enamel cups are not preferable. 

To pack the outfit snugly, set the mixing pan 
Into the frying pan, the handles of both pans 
folded, place the plates, one on top of the 
other. In the mixing pan, the cooking pot on 
top of these, and the coffee pot Inside the cook- 
ing pot. The cups will fit In the coffee pot. 
The weight of this outfit complete is 5 1-2 
pounds. 

A waterproof canvas bag of proper size 
should be provided in which to pack the uten- 
sils. Forks and spoons, wrapped in a dish 
towel, will fit nicely in the canvas bag along- 
side the pots. 

Waterproof canvas is suggested for the bag, 
not to protect the utensils but because any- 
thing but waterproofed material will absorb 
moisture and become watersoaked in rainy 
weather, adding materially to the weight of 
the outfit. 

One of the handiest aids to baking is the 



20 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

aluminum reflecting baker. An aluminum 
baker i6xi8 inches when open, folds to a 
package I2x i8 inches and about two inches 
thick, and fitted into a waterproof canvas case 
weighs, case and all, about four pounds. 

Broilers, fire Irons, fire blowers or inspira- 
tors, as they are sometimes called, and many 
other things that are convenient enough but 
quite unnecessary, should never burden the out- 
fit. Even though the weight of some of them 
may be insignificant, each additional claptrap 
makes one more thing to look after. There 
are a thousand and one claptraps, indeed, that 
outfitters offer, but which do not possess suffi- 
cient advantage to pay for the care and labor 
of transportation, and my advice is, leave them 
out, one and all. 

Outfitters supply small packing bags of 
proper size to fit, one on top of another, into 
larger waterproof canvas bags. These small 
bags are made preferably of balloon silk. By 
using them the whole outfit may be snugly and 
safely packed for the portage. 

In one of these small bags keep the general 
supply of matches, though each canoeist should 
carry a separate supply for emergency in his 
Individual kit. 

In like manner two or three cakes of soap 
should be packed in another small bag. Float- 



EQUIPMENT FOR A CANOE TRIP 21 

Ing soap is less likely to be lost than soap that 
sinks. 

A dozen candles will be quite enough. 
These If packed In a tin box of proper size 
will not be broken. 

Repair kits should be provided. A file for 
sharpening axes and a whetstone for general 
use are of the first Importance. Include also 
a pair of pincers, a ball of stout twine and a 
few feet of copper wire. A tool haft or han- 
dle with a variety of small tools Inside Is con- 
venient. Either a stick of canoe cement, a 
small supply of marine glue, or a canoe repair 
outfit such as canoe manufacturers put up and 
which contain canvas, white lead, copper tacks, 
calor and varnish will be found a valuable ad- 
junct to the outfit should the canoe become 
damaged. This tool and repair equipment 
should be packed In a strong canvas bag small 
enough to drop Into the larger nine-Inch water- 
proof bag. 

A small leather medicine case with vials 
containing, in tabloid form, a cathartic, an 
astringent (lead and opium pills are good) 
and bichloride of mercury, suflices for the 
drug supply. Surgical necessities are: Some 
antiseptic bandages, a package of linen gauze, 
a spool of adhesive plaster and one-eighth 
pound of absorbent cotton, wrapped In oiled 



22 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

silk. In addition most campers find It con- 
venient to have in their personal outfit a pair 
of small scissors. These are absolutely neces- 
sary if one is to put on a bandage properly. 
The regular surgical scissors, the two blades of 
which hook together at the center, are the 
most convenient sort, both to use and to carry, 
and have the keenest edge. 

A pair of tweezers takes up but little room 
and is useful for extracting splinters or for 
holding a wad of absorbent cotton In swabbing 
out a wound, as cotton will, of course, become 
septic If held In the fingers. 

A small scalpel Is better than the knife blade 
for opening up an Infection, as it Is more con- 
venient to handle and will make a deep short 
Incision when desired. These will all be 
packed In one of the small balloon silk bags. 



CHAPTER IV 

PERSONAL EQUIPMENT 

EACH canoeist should have a personal 
kit or duffle bag of waterproof canvas. 
These may be purchased from outfitters 
and are usually 36 inches deep and of 12, 15, 
18 or 21 Inches diameter. The 12-inch bag, 
however, Is amply large to accommodate all 
one needs In the way of clothing and other per- 
sonal gear. This, as well as every other 
waterproof canvas packing bag mentioned, ex- 
cepting the cooking kit bag, should be supplied 
with a handle on the bottom and one on the 
side. These bags not only keep the contents 
dry, but, as previously stated, do not absorb 
moisture to add to the weight, a very essen- 
tial feature where every unnecessary pound 
must be eliminated. I was once capsized In a 
rapid and my duffle bag lay half a day In the 
water before It was recovered. The contents 
were perfectly dry. 

One suit of medium weight woolen under- 
clothing In addition to the suit worn is ample 

23 



24 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

for a short trip. Four extra pairs of thick 
woo'len socks should be provided — the home- 
knit kind. An excellent material for trousers 
to be worn on the trail is moleskin, though for 
midsummer wear a good quality khaki is first 
rate. Moleskin, however, will withstand the 
hardest usage and to my mind is superior to 
khaki or any other material where wading is 
necessary and on cold or rainy days, as it is 
very nearly windproof. A good leather belt 
should be worn, even though suspenders sup- 
port the trousers. 

The outer shirt should be of light weight 
gray or brown flannel and provided with pock- 
ets. A blue flannel shirt of the best quality 
is all right. The cheaper qualities of blue 
crock, and this feature makes them objection- 
able. If the outer shirt is too heavy It will be 
found cumbersome under the exertion of the 
portage. 

A large, roomy Pontlac shirt to slip over the 
outer shirt and use as a sweater is much pref- 
erable to a sweater on the trail. It is wind- 
proof and warm. Do not take a coat — the 
Pontiac shirt will be both coat and sweater. 
A coat is always in the way on a canoe trip 
and makes the pack that much heavier. 

A pair of low leather or canvas wading 
shoes for river work and larrlgans or shoe 



PERSONAL EQUIPMENT 25 

pacs for ordinary wear, large enough to admit 
two pairs of woolen socks, are best suited to 
canoeing. Heavy, hobnailed mountaineer 
shoes or boots are not In place here. 

Heavy German socks, supplied with garter 
and clasp to hold them In position, are better 
than canvas leggings, and protect the legs from 
chill at times when wading Is necessary In Icy 
waters. 

Any kind of an old slouch hat Is suitable. 

Some canoeists take with them a suit of 
featherweight oUskln. Personally I have 
never worn rainproof garments when canoe- 
ing. Once I carried a so-called waterproof 
coat, but It was not waterproof. It leaked 
water like a sieve, and was no protection even 
from the gentlest shower. I am Inclined, how- 
ever, to favor featherweight oilskins, though 
not while portaging — they would be found too 
warm — but when paddling In rainy weather, 
or to wear on rainy days about camp. 

If the trip Is to extend into a black fly or 
mosquito region, protection against the Insects 
should be provided. A head net of black bob- 
blnet that will set down upon the shoulders, 
with strings to tie under the arms. Is about the 
best arrangement for the head. Old loose kid 
gloves, with the fingers cut off, and farmers^ 
satin elbow sleeves to fit under the wrist bands 



26 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

of the outer shirt will protect the wrists and 
hands. The armlets should be well and tight- 
ly sewn upon the gloves, for black flies are not 
content to attack where they alight, and will 
explore for the slightest opening and discover 
some undefended spot. They are, too, a hun- 
dred times more vicious than mosquitoes. 

There are many receipts for fly dope, but In 
a half hour after application perspiration will 
eliminate the virtue of most mixtures and a 
renewed application must be made. Ness- 
muk's receipt Is perhaps as good as any, and 
the formula Is as follows: 

Oil of pine tar 3 parts 

Castor oil 2 parts 

Oil of pennyroyal i part 

If when you were a child your father held 
your nose as an Inducement for you to open 
your mouth while your mother poured castor 
oil down your throat, the odor of the castor 
oil rising above the odors of the other ingredi- 
ents will revive sad memories. Indeed it Is 
claimed for this mixture that the dead will 
rise and flee from Its compounded odor as they 
would flee from eternal torment. It certainly 
should ward off such lltde creatures as black 
flies and mosquitoes. 

Another effective mixture is: 



PERSONAL EQUIPMENT 27 



Oil of tar 3 parts 

Sweet oil 3 parts 

Oil of pennyroyal i part 

Carbolic acid 3 per cent. 

An Indian advised me once to carry a fat 
salt pork rind in my pocket, and now and again 
rub the greasy side upon face and hands. I 
tried it and found It nearly as good as the 
dopes. 

Unless one penetrates, however, far north 
in Canada during black fly season these extra- 
ordinary precautions will scarcely be neces- 
sary. There is nowhere in the United States 
a region where black flies are really very bad 
(though perhaps I am drawing invidious com- 
parisons in making the statement), and even 
in interior Newfoundland they are, compared 
with the farther north, tame and rather Inof- 
fensive though always troublesome. 

The choice of fishing tackle, guns and arms 
depends largely upon personal taste. Steel 
rods of the best quality will serve better than 
split bamboo on an extended trip where one, 
continuously on the portage trail, Is often un- 
able to properly dry the tackle. The steady 
soaking of a split bamboo rod for a week is 
likely to loosen the sections and injure a fine 
rod. A waterproof canvas or pantasote case 



28 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

Is the right sort for the rod — leather cases are 
unpractical on a cruising trip. 

Leather gun cases, too, under like circum- 
stances will become watersoaked, and under 
any circumstances they are unnecessarily 
heavy. Use canvas cases therefore in consid- 
eration for your back. They are light and In 
a season of rain Immeasurably better than 
leather. 

Economize, also, on ammunition. Do your 
target practice before you hit the trail. A 
hunter that cannot get his limit of big game 
with twenty rifle cartridges Is an unsafe In- 
dividual to turn loose in the woods. 

For spruce grouse, ptarmigan and other 
small game a ten-inch barrel, 22-calIber single- 
shot pistol Is an excellent arm, provided one 
has had some previous experience In Its use. 
It is not a burden on the belt, and a handful of 
cartridges In the pocket are not noticed. 

Pack your cartridges In a strong canvas bag, 
your gun grease and accessories In another re- 
ceptacle. 

On the belt also carry a broad-pointed four- 
Inch blade skinning knife of the ordinary 
butcher knife shape. This will be your table 
knife, as well as cooking and general utility 
knife. 

In the pocket carry a stout jackknife, a 



PERSONAL EQUIPMENT 29 

waterproof matchbox, always kept well filled, 
and a compass. 

A film camera is more practical for the trail 
than a plate camera for many reasons, one of 
which is weight. Plates are heavy and easily 
broken. It is well to have each roll of films 
put up separately in a sealed, water-tight tin. 
Dealers will supply them thus at five cents ex- 
tra for each film roll. A waterproof pantasote 
case, too, is better than leather, for leather in a 
long-continued rain will become watersoaked, 
as before stated. 

If a plate camera is carried the plates may 
be packed In a small light wooden box — a 
starch box, for Instance. The box will protect 
them under ordinary circumstances. Film rolls, 
however, may be carried in a small canvas bag 
that will slip Into one of the larger waterproof 
bags. 

My object In outlining outfit is rather to em- 
phasize the possibilities of selecting a light and 
efiicient outfit that may be easily packed and 
transported on the trail, than to evolve an In- 
fallible check list; therefore I shall not attempt 
to name in detail toilet articles, tobacco and 
odds and ends. Take nothing, however, save 
those things you will surely find occasion to 
use, unless I may suggest an extra pipe, should 
your pipe be lost. A small balloon silk bag will 



30 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

hold them, together with a sewing case contain- 
ing needles, thread, patches and some safety 
pins. Another will hold the hand towels and 
hand soap In dally use, while an extra hand 
towel may be stowed In your duffle bag. 

In concluding this chapter It may be perti- 
nent to say that the novice on the trail Is pretty 
certain to burden himself with many things he 
will seldom or never use. Take your outfitter 
Into your confidence. Tell him what sort of a 
trip you contemplate and he will advise you. 
First-class outfitters are usually practical out- 
of-door men and camping experts. They have 
made an extended study of the subject, for it 
Is part of their business to do so. Therefore, 
In selecting outfit. It Is both safe and wise to 
rely upon the advice of any responsible out- 
fitter. 



CHAPTER V 

FOOD 

THE true wilderness voyager Is willing to 
endure some discomforts on the trail, 
to work hard and submit to black flies 
and other pests, but as a reward he usually de- 
mands satisfying meals. There Is, Indeed, no 
reason for him to deny himself a variety and 
a plenty, unless his trip Is to extend Into months. 
Weight on the portage trail Is always the con- 
sideration that cuts down the ration. Packing 
on one's back a ration to be used two or three 
months hence Is discouraging. 

I have evolved a two-week food supply for 
two men, based upon the United States army 
ration, varied as the result of my own experi- 
ences have dictated. It offers not only great 
variety, but Is an exceedingly bountiful ration 
even for hungry men. Personal taste will sug- 
gest some eliminations or substitutions that 
may be made without material loss or change In 
weight. If there Is certainty of catching fish 
or killing game, or If opportunity offers for 
purchasing fresh supplies along the trail, re- 

31 



32 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

ductions In quantity may be made accordingly. 
For each additional man, or for any period be- 
yond two weeks, a proportionate Increase In 
quantity may be made. 

Bacon, 6 pounds. 

Salt fat pork, 2 pounds. 

Ham or canned meats, 5 pounds. 

"Truegg" (egg powder), i pound (equals 4 dozen 
eggs.) 

" Trucream " (milk powder), i^ pounds. 

" Crisco," 3 pounds, (2 cans). 

Fresh bread, 2 pounds. 

Flour, 12 pounds. 

Corn meal (yellow), i pound. 

Rolled oats, i pound. 

Rice, I pound. 

Baking powder, yz pound. 

Potatoes (Dehydrated) riced, 2 pounds (equals 14 lbs. 
fresh potatoes). 

Potatoes (Dehydrated) sliced, i pound (equals 7 lbs. 
fresh potatoes). 

Carrots (Dehydrated), ^4. pound (equals 3 lbs. fresh 
carrots). 

Onions (Dehydrated), ^ pound (equals 3M lbs. fresh 
onions). 

Cranberries (Dehydrated), K pound (equals 2^^ qts. 
fresh fruit). 

Beans, 2 pounds. 

Green peas (Dehydrated), Ya pound (equals 1%: lbs. 
fresh peas). 

Coffee (ground), 2 pounds. 

Tea, Yz pound. 

Cocoa, Y2 pound. 

Sugar (granulated), 5 pounds. 

Preserves, i pound. 

Lemons, Y2 dozen. 

Lime tablets, Y2 pound. 

Prunes (stoned), i pound. 

Raisins, i pound. 

Salt, I pound. 

Pepper, ^/4 ounce. 

This gives each man a nominal ration of 



FOOD 33 

[14 1-2 pounds a week, or about two pounds 
a day. In reality, however, it Is more bountiful 
than the summer garrison ration and far more 
liberal than the summer marching ration of the 
army. This Is brought about by the pretty 
general elimination of water, largely through 
the substitution of dehydrated vegetables and 
fruits for fresh and canned goods. The de- 
hydrated products designated are in every par- 
ticular equal to fresh products and far superior 
to canned goods. Dehydrated vegetables 
possess all the qualities, In fact, of fresh vege- 
tables, with only the large percentage of water 
removed. Water Is Introduced restoring them 
to original form usually by boiling. No chemi- 
cal Is used as a preservative as Is the case with 
all dried vegetables put up by foreign manu- 
facturers. 

It will be noticed that butter has been omit- 
ted and that " Crisco " has been Introduced in 
the place of lard and to be used In cooking In- 
stead of butter. Crisco Is a product of edible 
vegetable oils. It has the appearance of lard 
but can be heated to a much higher temperature 
without burning, is fully equal to butter when 
used as shortening, and dough bread, fish or 
other articles of food fried in it will not ab- 
sorb It so readily as they will lard, nor will It 
transmit the flavor of one food to another. For 



34 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

example, fish may be fried In Crlsco, and dough 
bread or anything else fried in the same Crisco 
will have not the slightest flavor of fish. It 
will keep fresh and sweet under conditions that 
turn lard and butter rancid. Butter quickly 
becomes strong, and the heat of the sun keeps 
It in an oily, unpalatable condition, even when 
packed In air-tight tins. The most lavish user 
of butter will discover that It Is no hardship to 
go without It when In camp. Crisco, put up 
In handy, frictlon-top cans, can be purchased 
from nearly any grocer. 

Coffee should be carried In frictlon-top tins. 
On extended trips coffee Is too bulky to carry 
save as a special treat. A pound of tea will go 
as far as many pounds of coffee; therefore on 
trips extending beyond three or four weeks the 
proportion of tea should be Increased and that 
of coffee diminished. On short trips, however, 
such as we are discussing, there Is no reason 
and most Americans usually prefer It even 
when In camp. 

Each article of food should have Its Individ- 
ual bag, to fit Into one of the larger waterproof 
canvas bags described, though the bacon and 
fat pork, each piece wrapped In paraffin 
(waxed) paper, may be packed In one bag. 
Paraffin paper will protect other packages In 
the bag from grease. Several articles of small 



FOOD 35 

bulk and weight such as dehydrated carrots, 
onions, cranberries and green peas each In Its 
original package or a small muslin bag suit- 
able In size may be carried in a single balloon 
silk bag. The small bags containing such ar- 
ticles as are not in daily and frequent use should 
be stowed in the bottoms of the canvas bags, 
while those In constant demand should be at the 
top where they can be had without unpacking 
the entire bag. Every package or bag should 
be plainly labeled with the nature of its con- 
tents. In labeling them use Ink, as pencil marks 
are too easily obliterated. Where a party is 
composed of a sufficient number of people to 
make it worth while the party ration for each 
day may be weighed out and packed in a sepa- 
rate receptacle, thus making seven food pack- 
ages for each week. This, however, would 
be obviously unpractical where there are less 
than eight or ten members of the party. 

No glass or crockeryware should be used, 
not only because of its liability to break, but 
because of its unnecessary weight. 

A good way to carry the tin of baking pow- 
der is to sink it into the sack of flour. The 
flour will protect it and preclude the possibility 
of the cover coming off and the contents spill- 
ing out. Do not carry prepared or self-raising 
flour on the trail. For many reasons it is un- 



36 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

practical for trail use, though perhaps most ex- 
cellent In the kitchen at home. 

Throughout I have accentuated the advis- 
ability of waterproof covers for everything. 
Every ounce of water absorbed by tent, bags, 
or package covers, adds to the tedium of the 
trail by so much unnecessary weight. When 
flour carried In an ordinary sack Is exposed to 
rain a paste will form next the cloth, and pres- 
ently harden into a crust that will protect the 
bulk of flour from Injury. But the flour used 
up In the process of crust forming is a decided 
waste, and the paste, retaining a degree of 
moisture, Increases weight. 

I have suggested balloon silk for the small 
food bags to fit into the larger waterproofed 
canvas bags, not only because It does not ab- 
sorb moisture, but because there will be no pos- 
sibility of the contents sifting through the 
cloth. If these or the cloth from which to 
make them cannot be readily obtained, closely 
woven muslin will do. 

Should the canoeist desire to make his own 
bags and should he not find it convenient to pur- 
chase waterproofed canvas, the ordinary can- 
vas which he will use may be waterproofed by 
the following process : 

In two gallons of boiling water dissolve three 
and one-half ounces of alum. Rain water is 



FOOD 37 

best, though any soft water will do; but It 
must he soft water to obtain the best results. 
In another vessel dissolve four ounces of sugar 
of lead In two gallons of soft water. Unite the 
solutions when they have cleared by pouring 
Into another vessel No. i first, then No. 2. 
Let the solution stand over night, decant it Into 
a tub, free of any sediment that may have 
settled, and It Is ready for the canvas. The 
cloth should be put Into the solution, thor- 
oughly saturated with It and then lightly 
wrung out, and hung up to dry. This treat- 
ment will render canvas to a considerable ex- 
tent, though not completely, waterproof. 

Muslin for the smaller food bags may be 
waterproofed by painting It with a saturate so- 
lution of turpentine and paraffin. 

Canned goods should be packed snugly in 
canvas bags, with cans on end, that the sides, 
not the corners or edges, will rest against the 
back in portaging. 

Camp chests In which to store food or other 
articles are carried by some canoeists, but they 
add considerable weight to the outfit. The 
best and most serviceable camp chest Is one of 
Indestructible fiber. One with an Inside meas- 
urement of 18 X 24 X 12 inches weighs twenty 
pounds. 



CHAPTER VI 

THE PORTAGE 

THERE are several types of pack har- 
ness offered by outfitters, but It is gen- 
erally conceded that the best method of 
carrying heavy or medium-weight packs Is with 
the tump line. In tump line carrying the pack 
Is supported by a broad band of leather passed 
across the head — high up on the forehead — 
thus throwing the weight upon the strong mus- 
cles of the neck, with no shoulder straps or 
other support. 

Canadian voyageurs, Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany packers and Indians use the tump line to 
the exclusion of all shoulder-carrying devices. 
Indeed, by no other method would it be pos- 
sible for them to transport upon their backs 
through a rough country the heavy turdens 
which they are called upon to carry. Experi- 
enced packers with the tump line will some- 
times portage loads of upwards of four hun- 
dred pounds. In tests of skill I have seen a 
man carry In a single load the contents of three 
barrels of flour — 588 pounds. 

38 



THE PORTAGE 39 

The tump line consists of a broad piece of 
leather some eighteen or twenty inches In 
length (known as the head strap or head- 
piece), with a leather thong usually about seven 
feet In length attached to each end, the total 
length from the tip end of one thong to the tip 
end of the other thong averaging about sixteen 
feet. 

Sometimes the two thongs are sewn to the 
headpiece, and again the line Is a single strip of 
leather, broadened in the center to form the 
headpiece. The best tump lines, however, have 
the head strap as a separate piece with a buckle 
at each end by which the thongs are attached. 
This arrangement admits of adjustment, if 
necessary, to suit the Individual after the pack 
has been made up. 

There Is a knack In tump line carrying, but 
the following directions for making up various 
packs will give the novice sufficient Insight, with 
a little experience, to enable him to acquire the 
art. 

When the pack is to He made up wholly of 
bags, lay the tump line on the ground with the 
thongs parallel to each other and from sixteen 
to twenty inches apart, depending upon the 
length of the bags to be packed. Place the 
bags across the thongs, one bag upon another, 
taking care that the thongs are not so near the 



40 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

ends of the bags as to render them liable to 
slip off when the pack Is tied. Now lift the 
head strap above the top bag and secure the 
pack by drawing the loose end of each thong 
In turn tight around the bags and knotting It a 
few Inches below the buckle that attaches Its 
other end to the headpiece. 

When a pack cloth Is to be used, spread the 
pack cloth upon the thongs of the tump line, 
stretched upon the ground In the manner above 
described, and In the center of the pack cloth 
lay folded blankets and other articles to be 
packed, making the pile about two feet long, 
and taking care that hard substances are In the 
center, with blankets and soft things outside. 
Now turn the sides of the pack cloth over the 
pack and fold over the ends. If a bag Is to be 
Included, lay It upon the pack after the cloth 
has been folded, and secure the whole as in 
the former case. 

Another method of making up a pack with 
the pack cloth, common among Canadian voy- 
ageurs, Is as follows: Spread the cloth upon 
the ground, and lay the tump line across It, the 
headpiece near one end and the thongs a foot 
from the sides. Fold the sides of the cloth In- 
ward over each thong. Now build up the pack 
in a neat pile about two feet long on the folded 
cloth, taking care as before that hard things 



THE PORTAGE 41 

are placed in the middle. Fold the end of the 
pack cloth with protruding thongs over the 
pack, take a half turn with the loose end of a 
thong around the other end near the headpiece, 
draw It tight until the end Is closely puckered, 
then knot It and draw up the other thong and 
secure It In like manner. Now bring the free 
ends of the tump line to center of pack, on top, 
cross them and pass them around middle of 
pack and tie. 

The knack of comfortable tump line carry- 
ing once the neck muscles have become de- 
veloped and hardened to the work Is In prop- 
erly balancing the pack. With the headpiece 
resting high up upon the forehead the pack 
should hang with Its bottom no lower than the 
hips. Neither should it be too high. A little 
experimenting will teach just where the proper 
balance Is to be found. If It Is too high, 
lengthen the line, or If too low shorten It by 
means of the buckles which attach the thongs 
to the headpiece. 

Experienced packers pile additional bags or 
bundles on top of the pack, the uppermost 
bundle standing higher than the head. In my 
own experience I have found that an additional 
bag thus placed upon the pack and resting 
against the back of my neck helped balance the 
load. My favorite bag for this purpose Is a 



42 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

forty or fifty pound bag of flour, sometimes 
surmounted by a lighter bundle which rested 
partly upon the flour and partly upon my head. 

The tenderfoot will be quite content to limit 
his early loads to sixty or seventy pounds, and 
even then his first portages will not be what he 
can conscientiously term experiences of unal- 
loyed joy. Gradually, however, he will learn 
the knack of tump packing and at the end of a 
couple of weeks of daily experience will find 
himself able to negotiate a load of one hundred 
pounds with some ease. 

All the various types of pack harness are 
supplied with straps by which the pack is se- 
cured and loops through which to slip the arms, 
the pack being carried from the shoulders In- 
stead of the head. With this sort of a pack, 
as with the tump line, care should be given to 
the proper adjustment, with the bottom of the 
pack no lower than the hips. Fifty pounds is 
about as heavy a load as one can comfortably 
carry from the shoulders. 

Outfitters sometimes attach a headpiece to 
their pack harness — that Is to say the harness 
Is provided with both shoulder loops and tump 
line head strap. The object Is to secure a di- 
vision of weight between shoulders and head. 
This Is a method employed by Eskimos when 
hunting without dogs. The Eskimo hunter 



THE PORTAGE 43 

binds his pack with sealskin thongs, and manip- 
ulates a single thong in such a manner as not 
only to secure the pack but to form arm loops 
and headpiece as well. 

No matter what type of shoulder harness is 
employed, a breast strap must be used to fasten 
together the arm loops in front or the loops 
will have a continual tendency to slip backward 
and off the shoulders. This breast strap fastens 
the packer so securely to his pack that should 
he slip, as is sometimes likely, the pack will 
carry him down with it and the probability of 
Injury is multiplied many times. This alone is 
a very decided objection to all forms of pack 
harness. 

If one slips with a tump line, on the contrary, 
a slight twist of the head will disengage and 
free one from the pack; and if one Is hunting 
the tump pack may readily be dropped at a mo- 
ment's notice, should game be sighted. 

Let me therefore urge the adoption of the 
tump line for all portage work where fifty 
pounds or more must be transported. No ex- 
perienced packer will use harness. Harness 
packing Is Indeed Indicative of the tenderfoot 
who has never learned how, unless on long 
cross country tramps with light loads. 

But on a canoe trip, If one would make pro- 
gress, big loads must be resorted to. For In- 



44 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

stance, if the canoeist has a two mile portage to 
negotiate and one hundred pounds of duffle he 
has but two miles to walk if he carries all his 
duffle at once, but if he makes two loads of it 
he must walk six miles. With the hundred 
pound load the portage may easily be covered 
in one hour. With fifty pound loads three 
hours will be consumed, for there will be time 
lost in making up the second pack. 

Axes, guns and extra paddles may be thrust 
under the thongs of the tump line, or carried 
in the hand. Never portage a rifle with a cart- 
ridge in the chamber, and never portage a 
loaded shotgun. To disregard this advice will 
be to take an unnecessary and foolhardy risk. 

Save in a rather stiff breeze, one man can 
carry a canoe weighing less than one hundred 
pounds nearly as easily as two can carry it. 
There is one best way of doing everything, and 
the best and most practical way to carry a canoe 
is the Indian's way. 

Tie one end of a stout string or thong se- 
curely to the middle thwart close to the gun- 
wale, and the other end to the same thwart 
close to the opposite gunwale with the string 
stretched taut from end to end of the thwart 
and on top of it. Slip the blades of two pad- 
dles, lying side by side, under the string, the 
paddle handles lying on the forward thwart. 



THE PORTAGE 45 

With the handles as close together as they will 
He, bind them with a piece of rope or thong to 
the center of the forward thwart. 

Spread the blades upon the middle thwart 
sufficiently wide apart to admit your head be- 
tween them. Take a position on the left side 
of the canoe facing the stern. Just forward of 
the middle thwart grasp the gunwale on the op- 
posite or right side of the canoe In your left 
hand and the gunwale on the near or left side 
In your right hand, and, lifting the canoe over 
your head, let the flat side of the paddles di- 
rectly forward of the middle thwart rest upon 
the shoulders, your head between them. It will 
be found that though you faced the stern In 
lifting the canoe you are now facing the bow, 
and with the bow slightly elevated the canoe 
can be carried with ease and a view of the trail 
ahead will not be shut out. 

Should the flat paddle blades resting upon 
the shoulders be found uncomfortable, as they 
doubtless will at the end of the first two or 
three hundred yards, a Pontlac shirt or sweater 
will serve as a protecting pad. 

Outfitters offer for sale yokes, pneumatic 
pads and contrivances of various sorts as pro- 
tections for the shoulders, but these contriv- 
ances elevate the canoe from two to four inches 
above the shoulders and this increases the diffi- 



46 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

culty of steadying It on rough trail. The 
sweater or Pontiac shirt eases the cutting effect 
of the paddles just as well as any of the special 
portaging pads, and the canoe can be handled 
more easily with it. Besides it makes one less 
thing to look after. 

In a strong breeze it is often difficult for one 
man to handle a canoe, for the wind striking it 
on the side will turn the portager around and 
he will find it Impossible to keep his course in 
spite of his best efforts. If the portage is a 
short one — two or three hundreds yards — the 
canoe may be carried very well, one man with 
the bow the other with the stern upon a 
shoulder, the canoe on its side with the bottom 
next the portagers' heads, that they may easily 
grasp the gunwale In one hand and steady the 
canoe with the other. 

This position will soon be found exceedingly 
tiresome, and on portages exceeding two or 
three hundred yards the paddles should be ar- 
ranged with the blades on the after thwart and 
the handles lashed to the center of the middle 
thwart. With this arrangement one man car- 
ries exactly as when portaging the canoe alone, 
save that he stands under the canoe just for- 
ward of the after thwart instead of the middle 
thwart, while the other man carries the bow 



THE PORTAGE 47 

upon one shoulder. This is the easiest method 
of two-man portaging of which I know. 

Many odds and ends may be tucked In the 
canoe on the portage — fishing rods, for ex- 
ample, In cases, with one end stuck in the bow 
and the other end tied to the forward thwart. 

Should a canvas canoe become punctured It 
may be repaired by one of the following 
methods: 

If a stick of canoe cement Is in the outfit, 
heat the cement with a match and smear It 
over the puncture. 

Should the outfit contain a canoe repair kit, 
cut a patch of canvas somewhat larger than the 
puncture, apply a coat of white lead to the 
puncture and over a marginal space as large 
as the canvas patch, press the patch firmly and 
evenly upon the white lead and tack It down 
with copper tacks. To this apply calor, and 
when dry complete the repairs with a coat of 
varnish. 

Should marine glue be used, lay a sheet of It 
over the puncture, heat the bottom of a cup or 
some other smooth metal utensil and rub It 
over the glue until the glue melts sufficiently to 
fill the puncture. 

In a region where spruce gum can be had, 
melt a quantity of gum In a frying pan with 



48 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

sufficient grease to take from the gum Its brit- 
tle quality when cold. While hot pour the 
gum upon the rupture, letting It run well Into 
the opening and smearing It smoothly over the 
outside. 

"Peterborough" canoes are also easily re- 
paired with marine glue or gum. 

In loading the canoe place the heavier bags 
In the bottom and middle of the canoe, taking 
care so to distribute the weight that when fully 
loaded the canoe will He on an even keel. 
Keep the load always as low down as possible. 
Every bag rising above the gunwales offers re- 
sistance to the wind, and tends to make the 
load topheavy. When but one man occupies a 
canoe, however, sufficient weight should be car- 
ried forward to counterbalance his weight In 
the stern. 

Lash everything fast, particularly In rough 
water or when running rapids. It does not pay 
to take chances. With a companion I was once 
turned over In a rapid In an unexplored, 
sparsely timbered wilderness several hundred 
miles from the nearest base of supplies — a 
Hudson's Bay trading post. Nearly all our 
food was lost, as well as guns, axes, cooking 
utensils and many other necessities of travel. 
The temperature stood close to zero, snow cov- 
ered the ground and during the greater part of 



THE PORTAGE 49 

the three weeks occupied in reaching the post 
we had to dig driftwood from under the snow, 
and our Ingenuity was taxed at times to the 
utmost In efforts to protect ourselves from the 
elements and travel with any degree of com- 
fort. Nothing worse than an unpleasant duck- 
ing in Icy waters would have resulted from our 
accident had we observed the rule of ordinary 
caution and lashed our outfit to the thwarts. 

One end of a rope tied to the forward 
thwart, the other end threaded through bag 
handles or pack lashings and secured to the af- 
ter thwart, will do the trick. A short strap, 
one end attached to a thwart, the other end sup- 
plied with a snap to fasten on rifle or shotgun 
cases, Is a good way to secure the guns and 
still have them readily accessible. 

If you would make speed be smart in un- 
loading the canoe and making up your packs 
on the portage, and equally smart In reloading 
the canoe. Delays in loading, unloading and 
making up packs are the chief causes of slow 
progress. 

When It is found necessary to " track," give 
the rear end of the tracking line a turn around 
the forward thwart, on the land side of the 
canoe, then pass the end back and secure it to 
the middle thwart. This distributes the strain 
between the thwarts. While one man at the 



50 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

farther end of the line tows the canoe, the 
other man with a pole may walk upon the bank, 
and keep the canoe clear of snags, if the water 
is deep. Should the water be shallow it will 
usually be found necessary for him to wade 
and guide the bow through open channels. 



CHAPTER VII 

TRAVEL WITH SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS 

UNDER this head we shall consider : ( i ) 
(2) Saddles and pack equipment; (3) 
Animals best adapted to pack work; 
Outfit and provisions and how to pack them; 
(4) How to throw some practical hitches; (5) 
Equipment of the traveler who has no pack 
animal and whose saddle horse is required to 
transport both rider and equipment. 

Comfort on the trail depends to a very large 
degree upon the animals of the outfit. A mean 
horse Is an abomination, and a horse may be 
mean In many respects. A bucking horse, a 
horse that shies at stumps and other objects or 
at every moving thing, or one that Is frightened 
by sudden and unexpected sounds Is not only 
an uncomfortable but unsafe animal to ride 
upon rugged mountain trails; and a horse that 
will not stand without hitching, or one that Is 
hard to catch when hobbled and turned loose, 
will cause no end of trouble. 

In choosing a horse, then, avoid so far as 
possible one with these tendencies, and also ob- 

51 



52 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

serve the manner in which he handles his feet. 
He should not be subject to stumbling. He 
should be sure-footed, steady and reliable, to 
qualify him for work on dangerous trails; this 
is of the first importance. A horse that does 
not keep his eyes on the trail and select his 
footing with care is wholly unsuited to moun- 
tain work. He should be gunwise. A gun- 
wise horse will not be easily frightened by sud- 
den and unexpected noises. 

Whether intended for mountain or plains 
work, the horse should be a good camp animal 
— that is, one that will not wander far from 
camp. It is more than aggravating to find upon 
arising in the morning that your horse has dis- 
appeared and one always feels that time con- 
sumed In searching for a roving horse Is time 
worse than wasted. Of course this tendency of 
an animal can be forestalled by picketing him, 
but a picketed horse unless forage be particu- 
larly good will not do well, for It rarely hap- 
pens in these days of sheep-ravaged ranges that 
an animal can find sufficient food to meet his re- 
quirements within the limited length of a 
picket rope. 

Some horses need much persuasion before 
they can be Induced to ford streams, and I have 
had them lose their nerve and decline the de- 
scent of precipitous trails. An animal possess- 



SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS 53 

Ing this trait of timidity is not suited to trail 
work, for he Is likely to cause trouble at a criti- 
cal moment. 

Some horses are good foragers, others are 
not. A poor forager will become leg weary 
and break down much more quickly than the 
animal that takes advantage of every oppor- 
tunity to graze or browse. A horse just In 
from the open range should be round and full- 
bellied. This Is an indication that he Is a good 
feeder. Generally speaking the chunky horse 
Is the one best adapted to arduous trail work 
because he usually possesses greater powers of 
endurance than the longer, lankier type. 

All of the qualifications above enumerated 
should be borne In mind In selecting animals, 
whether for saddle or pack use. And of course 
the animals should be as sound as possible. 
One should never start upon a journey with an 
animal that Is lame or has cinch sores or galled 
back. 

When mountain trails are to be negotiated 
a saddle horse weighing from nine hundred to 
a thousand pounds will be found better adapted 
to the work than a larger animal. Too large a 
horse is liable to be clumsy on the trail, while 
too light a horse will of course tire under a 
heavy rider. A small horse, as a rule, is better 
able to forage a living than a large horse, and 



54 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

for this reason stands up better with a moder- 
ate load on long, continuous journeys. Ponies 
weighing from eight hundred to eight hundred 
and fifty pounds will pack one hundred and 
fifty pounds easily, and ponies of this size make 
much better pack animals than larger ones. 

While for general saddle work I prefer a 
horse, a mule is surer footed and therefore 
preferable on precipitous, narrow mountain 
trails. In the Sierra Madres of Mexico I rode 
a mule over trails where I would scarcely have 
trusted a horse. Good saddle mules, however, 
are scarce. I never saw a really good saddle- 
broke mule north of Mexico, though they are 
doubtless to be had. Mules have greater 
powers of endurance than horses, and for many 
other reasons are superior as pack animals. 
The chief objection to a mule Is his timidity 
upon marshy trails. His feet are much smaller 
than those of a horse, he mires easily, and he is 
fully aware of the fact. A good mule, never- 
theless. Is the one best all-around pack animal. 

Burros are good where forage is scarce, but 
they are slow. When the burro decides that he 
has done a day's work he stops, and that Is the 
end of It. He will not consult you, and he will 
not take your advice. When he fully decides 
that he will go no farther you may as well un- 
pack and make camp with as good grace as 



SADDLE AND PACK ANIMALS SS 

you can muster, and keep your temper. I be- 
lieve that burros have a well-organized labor 
union and they will not do one stroke of work 
beyond the limit prescribed by their organiza- 
tion. But one must sometimes resort to them 
in desert travel. They will pick their living and 
thrive on sage brush wastes where other ani- 
mals would die, and their ability to go long 
without water is truly remarkable. On rough 
mountain trails they are even more sure-footed 
if possible than mules, but like the mule it is 
difficult to force them over marshes or into 
rivers when fording is necessary. 

In horse-raising localities in the West very 
good horses can be had at anywhere from 
thirty to seventy-five dollars. The usual rate 
for horse rental is one dollar to one dollar and 
a half a day, and it is therefore cheaper, when 
the journey is to extend to a month or more, to 
purchase the animals outright and sell them 
when you are finished with them for what they 
will bring. Rented animals are generally ani- 
mals of low value and sometimes not very 
efficient, and in the course of a month one pays 
in rental a good share of the value of the horse. 
The risk is no greater, for If a rented horse is 
injured while in a traveler's possession, the 
owner holds him who has rented the animal re- 
sponsible for the damage. 



CHAPTER VIII 

SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT 

THE riding saddle should be a double 
cinch, horn saddle, with wool-lined 
skirts and of ample w^eight to hold its 
position. My own is a regular stock saddle 
weighing thirty-five pounds, though for all ordi- 
nary use a twenty-five- or thirty-pound saddle 
will do just as well. 

I prescribe the horn saddle because of its 
convenience. One may sling upon it a camera, 
binoculars or other articles in frequent demand, 
and when it becomes necessary to lead a pack 
pony the lead rope may be attached to it. For 
this latter purpose the horn is indeed indispen- 
sable. 

In the light of personal experience with both 
single and double cinch saddles, I recommend 
the latter unhesitatingly, particularly for moun- 
tain work. In steep ascents or descents it will 
not slide, while a single cinch saddle is certain 
to do so no matter how tightly cinched, and this 
shifting will sooner or later gall the horse's 

$6 



SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT si 

back. In Mexico the single cinch saddle is al- 
most universally used, but who ever saw a 
Mexican's horse that was free from saddle 
sores? The forward cinch should preferably 
be a hair cinch, though the ordinary webbed 
sort, both forward and rear, does well enough. 

The saddle blanket should be a thick, good 
quality wool blanket. In Arizona Navajo sad- 
dle blankets are popular, and they are un- 
doubtedly the best when obtainable. A hair 
saddle pad or corona, shaped to the animal's 
back and used In connection with the blanket, is 
a pretty good insurance against galling, and 
preferable to the felt pad, for it is cooler. 

A leather boot for rifle, and saddle bags for 
toilet articles, note books and odds and ends, 
bridle, halter rope, a pair of cowboy spurs with 
large blunt rowels, and a quirt to tickle delin- 
quent pack horses will be needed. The rifle 
boot has two sling straps. The usual method 
of carrying it is to insert it between the stirrup 
leathers on the near side, drop the sling strap 
at the top of the boot over the saddle pommel 
and buckle the sling strap at the bottom of the 
boot into the rear latigo ring. By detaching 
the latter sling from the boot before buckling 
It to the ring, the boot may be removed from 
or attached to the saddle by simply lifting the 
forward sling strap over the pommel, without 



A 



58 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

unbuckling. In case the sling strap at the top 
of the boot be placed too far down, it should 
be shifted higher up and secured to the boot 
with a leather loop which may be riveted to the 
boot. 

For the pack animals the ordinary cross-tree 
or sawbuck pack saddle 
IS the most practical 
pack saddle for all- 
around use, though the 
aparejo, used by the 
army and generally 
throughout Mexico, Is 
superior to the saw- 
buck when unwieldy 
packages of irregular 
size and shape are to 
be transported. Such 
packages must frequent- 
ly be transported by 
army trains and they 
are the rule rather 
than the exception In 
Mexico, where freight- 
ing throughout wide 



T^ear 



oili 



B& \C 

Method of Sunging Load 
ON Aparejo 
(Fig. I.) Rope is doubl- 
ed and loop A thrown over 
horse's back to off side. regions must be done 

fo.Vowfng-l"gra;^s?h"e'pa^k wholly on the backs of 

is represented as spread out animals, 
flat and viewed from above. 



SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT 59 

The aparejo is of Arabian origin, and the 
Spaniards, who adopted it from the Moors, In- 
troduced It into Mexico. In Mexico there are 
two types of the aparejo In common use. One 
made usually of the fiber of henequen, which is 




(Fig. 2.) Packs are now lifted into 
place and off packer brings loop A up 
around off side pack to top of load. 
Near packer passes end B through loop 
A and ties ends B and C together with 
square knot. Balance or " break " the 
packs and load is ready for hitch. 

Woven Into pockets which are stuffed 



with 



grass, to form the pads. Is used on donkeys In 



6o PACKING AND PORTAGING 

comparatively light packing; in the other type 
the pad casing is made of Mexican tanned 
leather instead of henequen matting but also 
stuffed with grass. This is used in heavier 
packing with mules, in transporting machinery 
and supplies to mines and merchandise to in- 
land settlements. 

The cross-tree or sawbuck, however, is used 
alm.ost exclusively in the United States by for- 
est rangers, cowboys, prospectors and pack 
travelers generally, and it is to this type of 
pack saddle that we shall direct our attention 
chiefly. It may be interesting to note that this 
is a very ancient type of pack saddle, of Asi- 
atic origin. It consists of two saddle boards 
connected near each end — front and rear — ^by 
two cross-pieces, the pommel and cantle form- 
ing a miniature sawbuck, while the saddle 
boards are similar in shape to the McClellan 
saddle tree. This is fitted with breeching, quar- 
ter straps, breast strap, latigos and cinch. As 
in the case of the riding saddle, the sawbuck 
pack saddle should be supplied with the double 
cinch. Care should be taken that the saddle 
fits the animal for which intended. A saddle 
either too wide or too narrow will be certain to 
cause a sore back. 

Each pack saddle should be accompanied by 
a heavy woolen saddle blanket, which should be 



SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT 6i 

folded into three or four thicknesses, for here 
even greater protection Is necessary than with 
the riding saddle, for the animal Is to carry a 
dead weight. 

The preferable method of carrying supplies 
with the sawbuck pack saddle Is with kyacks, 
basket panniers or the alforjas, though with 
sling and lash ropes any sort of a bundle may 
be slung upon It. 

When they can be obtained, kyacks of Inde- 
structible fiber stand first for preference. 
These are usually from twenty-two to twenty- 
four inches wide, seventeen or eighteen inches 
high and about nine inches deep, and are fitted 
with heavy leather loops for slinging .on the 
saddle. Unless the horse is a large one, the 
narrower, or twenty-two inch, should be se- 
lected. 

Basket panniers of similar size are lighter 
but not so well adapted to hard usage, and are 
more expensive. 

The alforjas is constructed of heavy duck 
and leather, and of the same dimensions as the 
kyack. They are much cheaper than either 
panniers or kyacks, and are therefore more 
commonly used. Any outfitter can supply them. 
They are slung upon the saddle in the same 
manner as kyacks. A pair of the type decided 
upon will be required for each animal. 



62 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

The next requirement is a half-Inch lash 
rope. This should be at least thirty-three, but 
preferably forty feet in length. In some re- 
spects a cotton rope is preferable to one of 
hemp, though the latter is more commonly 
used, and regulations prescribe it for army 
pack trains. 

A good broad cinch should be provided, 
fitted with a ring on one end to which is at- 
tached the lash or lair rope and a cinch hook on 
the other end. 

There should be a pair of hobbles for each 
animal, and a blind to put upon obstreperous 
pack animals when slinging and lashing the 
load. These may be purchased throughout the 
West at almost any village store. It is well 
also -to carry a bell, which should always be 
strapped around the neck of one of the horses 
when the animals are hobbled and turned loose 
to graze. 

It will sometimes be necessary to picket one 
of the animals, and for this purpose fifty or 
sixty feet of half or five-eighth inch rope will 
be required. Also suflScient leading rope should 
be provided for each pack animal, and a halter 
rope for the saddle horse. A lariat carried 
upon the saddle pommel will be found useful in 
a dozen ways, and may be utilized for picketing 
horses. 



SADDLE AND PACK EQUIPMENT 6z 

All horses should be "slick" shod; that Is, 
shod with uncalked shoes. The shoes should 
be of soft iron, not so light as to render them 
liable to bend before they are worn out, and 
they should not extend beyond the hoof at side 
or rear. Some extra shoes of proper size for 
each animal, a horseshoer's nippers, rasp, 
hammer and some nails should be Included in 
the equipment. 



CHAPTER IX 

PERSONAL OUTFIT FOR THE SADDLE 

THE outfit recommended in Chapters III 
and IV In discussing camp and personal 
equipment for canoe trips Is, with the 
modifications and additions which we shall now 
consider, equally well adapted to saddle and 
pack horse travel. As previously stated, our 
object Is to describe methods of packing, rather 
than to formulate an Infallible check list. With 
this In view an efficient outfit that may be 
easily packed and transported Is outlined, In a 
general way, and therefore such articles of out- 
fit mentioned In previous chapters as are ob- 
viously useful only In canoe travel will not be 
referred to In this connection. 

The wedge, the Hudson Bay, the forest 
ranger and the lean-to tent are all good models 
for pack animal travel, and easily erected. 
Whichever type is chosen, If made of any one 
of the light-weight materials described, will be 
found both satisfactory and easily packed. For 
example, a forest ranger's tent eight feet deep 

64 



PERSONAL OUTFIT 6s 

and eight feet wide weighs less than four 
pounds, while a lean-to with approximately the 
same floor space weighs about three pounds. In 
the more arid regions of the West one rarely 
finds It necessary to pitch a tent, though It is 
handy to have one along and well worth carry- 
ing, particularly should It be desired to remain 
more than one night at any point. 

During the summer, save In high altitudes, 
one pair of light woolen blankets will be found 
ample bedding. For all probable conditions 
of weather, however, in tent or In the open, 
the sleeping bag Is the most convenient and at 
the same time the most comfortable camp bed 
yet devised, and It is so easily carried on the 
pack horse that I advise Its adoption. One 
made of close-woven waterproofed canvas Is 
the most thoroughly practical bag for general 
use. This should be lined with two pairs of 
light blankets, that four thicknesses of blanket 
may be available for covering. The blankets 
should be so arranged that they may be taken 
out and the bag turned for airing. One may 
adapt such a bag to the temperature, using as 
many or as few thicknesses of blanket as de- 
sired, depending upon the number with which 
the bag Is lined. I recently saw a bag lined 
with four thicknesses of llama wool duffel 
(providing two thicknesses for cover) that 



66 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

weighed but eight pounds and furnished ample 
protection for any weather down to a zero 
temperature. 

Pack cloths or light tarpaulins 6x7 feet, 
used to cover and protect the packs, will be 
needed for each pack animal, and at night the 
bed may be spread upon them. Saddle bags 
make excellent pillows. 

In traveling in an arid region canteens are a 
necessity. There should be one large one for 
each traveler to be carried on the pack horse, 
and a small one swung upon the saddle horn 
will be found convenient for ready use. 

A folding water bucket of waterproofed 
canvas should also be included in the outfit. 

The aluminum reflecting baker which has 
been described is far preferable to the Dutch 
oven — a heavy iron kettle with iron cover — 
not only because it weighs far less and is much 
more easily packed, but because it is more prac- 
tical. Westerners are wedded to the Dutch 
oven, and this reference is merely made as a 
suggestion in case the question of choice be- 
tween the two should arise. 

If kyacks or alforjas are used the large 
water-proofed canvas duffle bags and food bags 
will not be required. The smaller balloon silk 
or musline food bags, however, will be found 
fully as convenient in packing in the pack horse 



PERSONAL OUTFIT 67 

kyack as In the canvas bags on the canoe trip. 

Each rider should be provided with either 
a saddle slicker or a poncho, which when not 
In use may be rolled and secured to the saddle 
directly behind the seat by means of tie strings 
attached to the saddle. A poncho Is prefer- 
able to a slicker, because of the many uses to 
which It may be put. 

On saddle journeys in cold, windy weather 
a wind-proof canvas coat or a large, roomy 
buckskin shirt Is a comfort. If a buckskin 
shirt is adapted, have It made plain without 
fringe or frill. Wilderness dwellers formerly 
fringed their buckskin shirts, not alone for 
ornament, but to facilitate the drying of the 
garment when wet. In the fringed shirt water, 
Instead of settling around the bottom of the 
shirt, around the yoke and the seams of the 
sleeve, will drain to the fringe which the wind 
quickly dries. In our case, however, the pon- 
cho will protect the shirt from a wetting. 

In summer, in an arid or desert region of 
the Southwest, athletic summer underwear will 
be found entirely satisfactory. Whether this 
or light wool is to be worn, however, will 
depend entirely upon the season and the region 
to be visited. 

In very warm weather a close-woven, good 
quality khaki outer shirt is both comfortable 



68 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

and practical; but on chilly autumn days a flan- 
nel shirt should take Its place — gray, brown, 
blue — the color does not matter so long as It 
does not crock. It Is my custom to have one 
khaki and one flannel shirt In my outfit. 

Trousers should be of heavy khaki, medium 
weight moleskin, or other strong close-woven 
material. Full-length trousers, with reinforced 
seat, are preferable In some respects to riding 
breeches, and may be worn with the regulation 
United States cavalry puttee leggings with 
shoes. 

Some riders prefer top boots, such as Ari- 
zona cowboys wear, and but for their high 
heels which make walking uncomfortable they 
would be admirable. HIgh-laced, medium- 
weight mountaineering shoes will eliminate the 
necessity of puttees, and many prefer them to 
low-laced shoes and puttees. In snowy, cold 
weather I have found heavy German socks and 
ordinary shoes, large enough to avoid the pos- 
sibility of pinching the feet, admirable foot- 
wear for the saddle. But whatever Is decided 
upon, extra trousers, extra leggings and extra 
shoes are superfluous. One pair of each — the 
pair worn — Is sufliclent. 

The hat should be of the Western style, with 
broad brim, and of the best grade. The brims 
of the cheaper ones are sure to sag after a lit- 



PERSONAL OUTFIT 69 

tie wear and exposure to a shower or two. A 
good reliable hat may be had for five dollars 
that will stand several years of hard wear and 
may be renovated when soiled, assuming again 
the freshness of a new hat. I have one for 
which I paid fourteen pesos in Monterey, Mex- 
ico, In 1907. I have worn it pretty steadily 
since in camp and on the trail. It has been 
twice renovated, and to-day so nearly resem- 
bles a new hat that I am not ashamed to wear 
It about town. 

Heavy gauntlet buckskin gloves are a neces- 
sary protection, not only against cold in frosty 
weather, but against brush in summer. The 
regulation United States cavalry glove is the 
best that I have discovered for all-around hard 
usage, and will not harden after a wetting. 

The saddle rifle should be short and light — 
not over twenty-four-inch barrel, and not above 
seven pounds In weight. A revolver is never 
needed, though for target practice one offers 
a means of amusement. 

Unless going Into permanent camp or Into 
an isolated region, It will hardly be found nec- 
essary to start out with more than one week's 
provisions. Before these are consumed set- 
tlements will be reached, where fresh supplies 
may be purchased. It is well to have along a 
few cans of baked beans and corned or roast 



70 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

beef, that a hasty meal may be prepared when 
time does not allow a sufficient halt to permit 
the preparation of uncooked foods. Two or 
three dozen lemons should also be provided, 
particularly in summer, and in more or less 
arid regions. 

Provisions and general outfit should be 
neatly packed In small bags, and evenly dis- 
tributed in the kyacks. 



CHAPTER X 

ADJUSTING THE PACK 

IN saddling up, be sure that the saddle 
blanket Is folded large enough to protect 
the horse's sides from the pack, when the 
pack Is slung Into place. Otherwise the kyacks 
or alforjas will be liable with constant chafing 
when the horse Is In motion to cause sores. Not 
only where the saddle rests upon the blanket 
but where the pack rests upon the horse's sides 
there should be sufficient thicknesses of blan- 
ket to overcome friction, and this demands a 
greater thickness than under the riding saddle, 
for the pack load Is a dead load. After the 
pack saddle Is thrown Into place, and before 
cinching It, ease the blanket by pulling It up 
slightly under the center of the saddle — along 
the backbone of the animal. This will over- 
come the tendency of the blanket to draw down 
and bind the horse's back too tightly when the 
saddle Is cinched and the pack In place. 

When packing the kyacks or alforjas par- 
ticular care should be taken to have the pair 

n 



72 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

for each horse evenly balanced as to weight. 
If the load swung on one side of the horse is 
heavier than that on the opposite side, there 
will be a continual drawing down of the pack 
saddle on the heavier side, resulting almost 
certainly in injury to the animal. Inattention 
or v/illful carelessless on the part of packers In 
balancing the pack is five times out of six the 
cause which leads to sore-backed pack animals. 

If two or more pack animals are used, let 
such provisions and utensils as are in constant 
use and will be needed at once by the cook, be 
packed on one animal. Hobbles and bell 
should also be carried on this animal. This 
will be the first animal unpacked, and while the 
other animals are being unpacked the cook may 
get busy, and the packer will have hobbles and 
bell at hand to Immediately attach to the ani- 
mals. 

Attached to each end of the kyacks and 
alforjas Is a leathern loop or sling strap. By 
means of these loops kyacks and alforjas are 
hung to the saddle, one loop fitting over the 
forward, the other over the rear cruz, or fork. 
The kyacks should be so adjusted as to hang 
evenly one with the other. That Is to say, one 
kyack should hang no lower upon the anlmaPs 
side than the other, and both should hang as 
high as possible. 



ADJUSTING THE PACK 73 

The kyacks In place, hobbles, bell, and such 
odds and ends as It may not be convenient to 
pack In the kyack, may be laid on the center 
between the crosstrees and on top of the kyack, 
and over all smoothly folded blankets, sleeping 
bags, or tent, care being exercised to keep the 
pack as low and smooth as possible. Every- 
thing carefully placed and adjusted, cover the 
pack with the pack cloth or tarpaulin, folded to 
proper size to protect the whole pack, but with 
no loose ends extending beyond It to catch upon 
brush or other obstructions. If Inconvenient 
to Include within the pack, the cooking outfit 
in Its canvas case may be lashed to the top 
of pack after the final hitch has been tied. 
All Is ready now for the hitch that Is to bind 
the pack Into place. 

Frequently the traveler is not provided with 
either kyacks or alforjas, and It becomes neces- 
sary to pack the load without the convenience 
of these receptacles. Before considering the 
hitches, therefore, let us describe methods of 
slinging the load In such cases upon the cross- 
tree saddle. 

The load which is to be slung from the 
crosstree should be arranged In two compact 
packages of equal weight, one for each side of 
the animal. Boxes may be used, but large, 
strong sacks are preferable. The large can- 



74 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

vas duffle bags, described In the chapter on 
canoe outfitting, are well adapted to the pur- 
pose. 




TV^^K Side^ 



Sung for Packing on Crosstree Saddle 
A is forward cruz, B rear cruz of saddle. CC are loops 
which support packages. D and E are ends or hauling 
parts of rope. 

Take the sling rope, and, standing on the 
near side, throw one end over the horse's neck 
just forward of the saddle. Now at about 
the middle of the rope form two half hitches, 
or a clove hitch, on the forward cruz or fork 
of the saddle. 

With the free end of the rope on the near 
side form a half hitch on the rear cruz, allow- 
ing sufficient loop between the forward and 
rear cruz to receive the side pack, with the 



ADJUSTING THE PACK 75 

free end of the rope falling under the loop. 
Now go to the off side and arrange the rope 
on that side In similar manner. 

Lift the offside pack into position with its 
forward end even with the forward fork, lift- 
ing the pack well up to the forks. Hold the 
pack in position with the palm of the right hand 
against the center of the pack, and with the left 
hand pass the loop along the lower side of the 
pack, drawing in the slack with the free end 
of the rope, which passes around the rear fork 
and under the center of the pack. With the 
pack drawn snugly in position, take a turn 
with the free end of the rope around the rope 
along the side of the pack. This will hold 
the pack in position. Tie a bowline knot in 
the end of rope, and at proper length for the 
bowline loop to reach the center and top of 
pack. Place loop where it may be easily 
reached from the near side. 

Now pass to the near side and sling the near 
pack in exactly similar manner, save that no 
bowline knot is to be formed. Reach up and 
slip the end of the near rope, which you are 
holding, through the bowline loop, draw tight 
and tie. 

The following is another method of slinging 
packs, frequently used by forest rangers : 

Throw the rope across the horse directly in 



76 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

front of the saddle, and as in the previous 
method form two half hitches with the rope 
at Its middle on the front fork, but In this case 
permitting the ends to He on the ground on 
either side the horse. Place the near pack in 
position and against the lower rope, and hold- 
ing it with one hand, bring the rope up and 
over the pack with the other hand and throw 
a half hitch around the forward fork, keeping 
the free end of the rope under. Draw the 
rope taut, lifting the pack well up. Pass the 
running rope back and throw a half hitch 
around the rear fork, the loose or running end 
of the rope on the under side, as when form- 
ing the half hitch on the front fork. Now 
pass the running rope from under over the 
pack at the rear, throw a half hitch over the 
rear fork, take up all slack, bring the loose 
end under and around the two ropes at their 
intersection between pack and rear fork, and 
tie securely. The pack on off side is slung in 
similar manner. 

Most mules, and not infrequently horses as 
well, have a constitutional dislike to receiving 
the pack. If your pack animal displays any 
such tendency adjust the blind over his eyes 
and let It remain there until the hitch is thrown 
and the load tightened and secured. The blind 
is usually an effective quieter. 



CHAPTER XI 

SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 

WHETHER the load Is made up with 
kyacks, alforjas, or separate packs 
slung to the crosstree saddle as de- 
scribed in the preceding chapter It must be se- 
cured in place. For this purpose various 
hitches are employed by packers, each hitch 
well adapted to the particular conditions which 
evolved It. 

Our description will be confined to the fol- 
lowing six hitches, which furnish ample vari- 
ety to suit the exigencies of ordinary circum- 
stances : 

( 1 ) The crosstree or squaw hitch, which 
IS the father of all hitches because from It the 
diamond, the double diamond and all pack- 
train hitches in present-day use were evolved. 

(2) A diamond hitch, adapted to the cross- 
tree pack saddle. This is a form of single 
diamond. 

(3) The United States army diamond par- 
ticularly adapted for use with the aparejo. The 
true double diamond Is a hitch rarely called for 

71 



78 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

save In army work or freighting pack trains, 
and will therefore be omitted. There are sev- 
eral so-called double diamonds that might be 
described, but these near-double diamonds pos- 
sess little or no advantage over the single dia- 
mond, and we shall pass them over as they are 
scarcely resorted to In ordinary pack work. 

(4) The one-man or lifting hitch. 

(5) The stirrup hitch, to be used when the 
packer has rope but no cinch. 

(6) The saddle hitch, employed in slinging 
loads upon an ordinary riding saddle. 

(7) The hitch for packing a sick or injured 
man. 

THE CROSSTREE HITCH 

This hitch was introduced into the North- 
west by the early fur traders and adopted by 
the Indians. Among Indians, women are the 
laborers, and the crosstree hitch being the hitch 
almost exclusively employed by the squaws was 
presently dubbed by white men the " squaw 
hitch." It is a hitch very generally used by 
prospectors, and for this reason is known in 
some localities as the *' prospector's hitch." 
In other sections of the West, where sheep 
herders commonly use it, it is locally called 
the '' sheep herder's hitch." It is a hitch 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 79 

easily thrown by one man, holds well, and Is 
therefore a favorite. 

With lash rope attached to cinch, take a 




Squaw or Crosstree Hitch 
(Fig. I.) Rope engaged on cinch hook and bight of rope 
running from rear forward under standing rope. 




(Fig. 2.) Loop of bight enlarged, reversed and passed 
around bottom and lower corners of off side pack. 

position on the near side of the animal facing 
the pack. Throw the cinch over the top and 



8o PACKING AND PORTAGING 



X 

f 


A^ 




>C 


X 


Ki ^ 


t^ 


- 




^ ^ 


^ 




^ 

r 


M 


^ 


^^ 



(Fig. 3). Hitch formed and ready to tighten, i. Stand- 
ing rope. 2. Running rope. 3. Rear rope— ^off side. 4. 
Front rope — off side. 5. Front rope — near side. 6. Rear 
rope — near side. 7. Marker. 

center of pack in such manner as to be easily- 
reached under the horse's belly. Pick up cinch 
and engage the rope from in out upon the 
hook. Draw up slack, taking care that the 
cinch rests properly upon the horse's belly. 
Grasp the running and standing rope in left 
hand above the hook, to hold slack, and with 
the right hand double the running rope and 
thrust the doubled portion under the standing 
rope from rear forward in a bight, at top of 
pack. Enlarge the loop of the bight by draw- 
ing through enough slack rope to make the loop 
of sufficient size to be passed over and around 
the off side kyack or pack. Step to off side, 
turn loop over, and engage it around the ends 
and bottom of kyack, from front to rear. Re- 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 8i 

turn to near side, and pass the loose end of 
running rope around the forward end, bottom 
and finally rear end of kyack. Draw the rope 
end, from above down, over and under the 
standing rear and running ropes, at the top and 
center of the load, and the hitch is ready to 
tighten. 

To tighten the hitch, grasp the running rope 
a little above the cinch hook, and pull with all 
your strength, taking up every Inch of slack 
possible. Retain this slack by holding the 
standing and running rope together with left 
hand, while with the right hand you reach to 
top of load and pull up slack where running 
rope passes under standing rope. Go to off 
side and draw in all slack, following the rope 
around off side pack. Retaining slack, return 
to near side, and still following rope and tak- 
ing up slack around front to rear of near side 
pack, grasp end of rope, already engaged as 
directed over and under standing rear and 
running rope, pull hard, bracing a foot against 
pack, and tie. Two men, one on each side of 
the horse, can, of course, throw the hitch and 
tighten the load much more quickly than one. 
Tightening the load is just as important a fea- 
ture of packing as evenly balancing the packs. 
The result of an improperly tightened load 
will pretty certainly be a sore-backed horse. 



82 PACKING AND PORTAGING 



THE CROSSTREE DIAMOND HITCH 

Take position on the near side of horse, as 
when forming the crosstree hitch, and throw 
cinch over horse, engaging it on hook and ad- 
justing it in exactly similar manner. Take in 




(Fig. I.) A turn is here taken around standing rope 
with loop of bight of running rope thrust under standing 
rope from rear to front, as in Fig. i, illustrating Squaw 
Hitch. 

slack and retain it by grasping the standing 
and running ropes in left hand. Double run- 
ning rope and thrust doubled portion under 
standing rope in a bight, from rear forward 
at top and center of load. Take up all slack. 
Enlarge loop of bight by drawing through 
enough running rope to form a diamond of 
sufficient size to hold top of load. Now bring 
center of loop over and under standing rope, 
from rear forward, thus giving rope at each 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 83 

side of loop a complete turn around standing 
rope. Throw the disengaged portion of run- 
ning rope to off side of horse, and passing to 
the off side, bringing the rope down along rear, 
bottom, and up front of kyack, thrust loose 
rope end up through loop at top of pack. 
Take in slack and return to near side of horse. 
Engage running rope around front, bottom and 
rear end of near side kyack or pack, and thrust 




Crosstree Diamond Hitch 
(Fig. 2.) Hitch formed ready to tighten. 

rope end over and under standing rope oppo- 
site center of loop. Take up slack and load in 
ready to tighten. 

Tighten load by grasping running rope above 
hook and drawing as tight as possible. Hold 
slack with left hand, gripping running and 
standing rope, and take up slack at loop with 
right hand. Pass to off side and take up slack 



84 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

and tighten rear to front around kyack. Pass 
to near side, tightening front to rear; finally, 
bracing a foot against the load pull on loose 
end, and retaining all slack make final tie. 

The above described *' diamond" hitch is 
not the true diamond employed by government 
pack trains where the aparejo Is used, but It Is 
a diamond evolved from the crosstree hitch, 
and Is particularly well adapted to the cross- 
tree or sawbuck pack saddle. Is easily formed, 
and holds the load securely, which Is the ulti- 
mate object of all hitches. 

THE UNITED STATES ARMY DIAMOND HITCH 

The single diamond hitch employed by army 
packers Is the Ideal hitch for securing a load 
upon an aparejo. This Is a two-man hitch, 
though an expert can throw it alone. 

One packer takes his position on the off side 
of the animal, while the other with the colled 
lash rope, cinch attached, remains on the near 
side. 

The near packer, retaining the cinch, throws 
the coiled rope over the horse's haunch, to rear. 
The off packer picks up end of rope, and re- 
ceiving the hook end of cinch, passed to him 
under horse's belly by near packer, holds it 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 85 

United States Army Diamond Hitch 

Figures represent successive stages in formation. 
Near side towards right in each case. Line PP in Fig. i 
represents horse's back, AA (Fig 3) standing part of 
rope, and Ai (Fig. 2) the running rope. 




Fig. 2. 




Fig. 3. 



86 PACKING AND PORTAGING 




Fig. 5. 




Fig. 6. 

together with end of rope In his left hand, and 
stands erect. 

The near packer, taking a position at the 
horse's neck, grasps the rope about six feet 
from cinch, and with an upward and backward 
motion, drops It between the two packs, one 
slung on either side of the aparejo. 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 87 

Still grasping the rope in his right hand just 
forward of the packs at the top, he pulls for- 
ward between the packs sufficient running rope 
to permit him to bring his hand down to his 
side. Retaining the rope In his right hand 
he now reaches up with his left hand, and 
with back of hand up and thumb under 
grasps running rope and draws sufficient rope 
forward to permit the left hand grasping the 
rope to come down to his side, arm's length. 

With the right elbow crooked the right hand, 
still holding the rope, is brought up about on 
a level with the chin, and the left hand, also 
retaining its hold on the rope, thumb down, is 
raised to hollow of the right arm, with loop of 
rope between the hands lying outside the right 
arm. Now by a single swinging motion with 
both hands the rope In the right hand, called 
the " standing rope," is thrown over the cen- 
ter of pack to the off packer who stands ready 
to receive It; and the rope held In the left hand, 
called the " running rope,'* over the horse's 
neck, forward of the pack. 

The off packer, still standing with cinch hook 
and end of rope In left hand, with his right 
hand graps the standing rope as It comes over 
as high up as he can conveniently reach, draws 
it down, and holding the cinch hook In proper 



88 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

position below the aparejo draws down the 
standing rope and engages it upon the hook 
from in out. 

The near packer now draws forward between 
the packs about six feet more rope, which he 
throws to the rear of the near side pack. This 
rope is now called the " rear " rope. He next 
grasps the running rope at the horse's neck, 
and with the off packer's assistance releases that 
portion of the running rope lying between the 
packs forward of the standing rope, and brings 
it to the center of pack on near side, next to and 
just back of the standing rope. 

He now slips his right hand down the rope 
to a point half way between pack and aparejo 
boot, and with the left hand reaches from for- 
Vv^ard between standing rope and aparejo and 
grasps the rope just above the right hand. Both 
hands are now slipped down the rope, and with 
the same motion drawn apart, one on each side 
of standing rope (under which the rope being 
manipulated passes) to the cinches. With the 
hands about ten Inches apart, the section of rope 
betwee nthem, which is held In a horizontal 
position. Is jammed down between the two 
cinches under the aparejo. 

The off packer, holding the running rope 
with his right hand above the hook, places the 
left hand holding end of rope on top of running 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 89 

rope between his right hand and the hook, and 
with thumb under running rope grasps both 
ropes and slips his hands up on running rope, 
bringing It to center of load. 

He now draws the end of the rope, held by- 
left hand, forward until a foot or so falls upon 
the near side of the horse's neck. The hitch 
Is now formed, ready to tighten. 

To tighten, the near packer with his left 
palm passing the side and center of the pack 
grasps the running rope at the rear of the stand- 
ing rope, at the same time bringing the running 
rope between the thumb and Index finger of the 
left hand, which he is using as a brace. In this 
position he is prepared to hold slack as it Is 
given him by the off packer. 

The off packer grasps the running rope close 
down to the hook, and, bracing himself with a 
knee against the aparejo boot, pulls with all his 
might, taking two or more pulls. If necessary, 
and giving slack to near packer, until no more 
slack can be taken on standing rope. He now 
steps smartly to rear and throws the top rope 
forward of the pack. The top rope Is the rope 
leading up from the rear corner of the aparejo 
boot on near side to the side and center of off 
side pack. After it is thrown forward it is 
called the " front " rope. He now prepares to 
receive slack from near packer by grasping the 



90 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

rear rope where it lies between the packs. 

The near packer, who has been receiving the 
slack given him by the off packer, carries his 
right hand, with which he holds the slack at 
rear of standing rope, to lower side of pack 
toward the aparejo, and reaches under standing 
rope, with left hand grasps rope above right 
hand, drawing it forward under standing rope, 
and employing both hands jams it upward in a 
bight between standing rope and pack, Care 
should be taken during this operation to retain 
all slack. 

The near packer now engages around front 
boot of aparejo the free portion of the running 
rope below the bight just formed. Holding 
slack with left hand, he graps the rope to rear 
of cinch in right hand; receiving slack from left 
hand he brings rope to rear of aparejo boot, 
and with both hands carries rope smartly to 
upper corner of side pack, always retaining 
slack. The off packer receives slack, pulling it 
in quickly hand over hand, the near packer re- 
taining his hold until the off packer has the rope 
taut. The near packer now takes a position 
at the forward end of load, facing the rear, and 
grasps end of rope prepared to take slack from 
off packer. 

The off packer, after receiving slack from 
near packer as described takes a turn of the 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 91 

rope around each hand, holding every inch of 
slack, steps to the rear, keeping In line with 
the horse's body, and then facing forward 
throws his full weight back upon the rope. Re- 
taining the slack with his left hand, with his 
right hand he brings the free portion of run- 
ning rope under and around the aparejo boot, 
from rear to front, passes forward of rope, and 
facing the rear and grasping rope, right hand 
above the left, brings It smartly to upper corner 
of pack. 

The near packer, holding end of rope. Imme- 
diately draws in slack until he has about six 
feet of free rope, which he throws over center 
of load to off side, and then drawing in all re- 
maining slack takes a turn of rope around each 
hand and throws his weight upon it, and the off 
packer releases his hold. 

Holding the slack with the left hand, the 
near packer releases his right hand and with 
it engages the free or running portion of rope 
under and around the aparejo boot to rear 
of load, while the off packer steps to rear of 
load, takes end of rope, and while he draws 
in all slack, neatly coils rope, holding coil in 
right hand at lower side of pack, and, with palm 
of left hand braced against center of load, re- 
ceives slack from near packer. 

Grasping in his left hand the taut rope above 



92 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

the coils, and lifting It sufficiently above the 
load to admit the coiled rope under It, he swings 
the coils with his right hand from rear to front 
to top of load and brings the standing rope 
held in his left hand down on top of the coils 
to hold them. He now takes a loop of the 
rope, forces it between standing rope and pack. 
In a bight, and takes a turn of the loop around 
standing and running rope to secure It, first 
joining the loop well up, and the hitch Is tight- 
ened. 

THE ONE-MAN OR LIFTING HITCH 

This Is a pretty good hitch sometimes where 
kyacks are not used and an Irregular pack Is 
swung upon the crosstree. While It holds the 
pack very securely to the animal's back, Its 
tendency Is to lift the corners that might cause 
friction upon the horse's sides. 

Standing on the near side of the horse, throw 
cinch over the horse's back, pick up cinch and 
engage rope upon cinch hook, from In out, as 
In previous hitches. Take up slack, bring run- 
ning rope up side of pack, double and thrust 
loop or bight under standing rope from rear 
forward at top of pack, to hold slack. Throw 
all loose rope to off side, and pass around to 
off side yourself. 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 93 




(Fig I.) A — Cinch D — Running rope 

C — Standing rope E — Front rope 
B— Cinch hook F— Marker 




Lifting Hitch 
(Fig. 2.) Grasp loop A in left hand and with right 
jam rope C C along and under rope B (where latter 
passes beneath corner of pack) to D, as shown in Fig. 3. 

Draw loose end of running rope forward and 



94 PACKING AND PORTAGING 




L,iFTiNG Hitch 
(Fig. 4.) Hitch formed ready to tighten. 

from under standing rope at top of pack. The 
effect of operations thus far is this : The run- 
ning rope passes up the near side, from hook 
and to top of load and passes under standing 
rope, which will serve effectually in final tight- 
ening of cinch to hold slack. 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 95 

Pass end of running rope over and under 
the forward end of off pack and backward un- 
der standing rope and pack. Now bring the 
rope forward over side of pack, double, and 
thrust the doubled portion over and under for- 
ward rope in a bight. With left hand grasp 
double of rope at bight just to rear of forward 
rope where it passes over and under forward 
rope, and with right hand slip running rope 
down and just to rear of standing rope. Take 
up slack. By pulling hard upon loose end of 
running rope the ends of pack will be lifted 
slightly. 

Throw loose end over horse to near side, 
and across middle of load. Pass to near side 
and manipulate rope as on off side. Tighten 
load. Secure the hitch by bringing loose end 
of rope over and under forward running and 
standing ropes, and tie. 

STIRRUP HITCH 

This hitch is useful where the packer has 
lash rope but no cinch, and may be employed on 
sawbuck saddle, aparejo, or where the load is 
hung upon an ordinary riding saddle. It is a 
two-man hitch, though one man may manipu- 
late it. 

Pass the rope over the load, with an equal 



96 PACKING AND PORTAGING 




(Fig. I.) Rope is thrown across load with equal por- 
tion falHng on each side. Loop A is formed on top of 
load, and the ends BB are passed through it to form 
large loops C and D. 



^§«««» 


A ^ 


''§*^^ 







Stirrup Hitch 
(Fig. 2.) lyoops C and D are passed under horse's 
belly and seized by packers on opposite sides. Each packer 
then draws end of rope which he is holding through loop 
which has been passed to him. Off packer forms bowline 
knot, E, and near packer passes his end of rope through 
this. Hitch is now ready to tighten. 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 97 

division of rope on either side. Form a loop 
at center and top of load. Each packer will 
now place a foot upon the rope, where It falls 
from loop to ground, and pass his end of rope 
through loop from above down and draw 
through slack rope. This forms a loop on 
either side in which the foot rests. Each 
packer will now bring forward and under the 
horse's belly the loop in which his foot rests, 
passing the loop to the other packer at the same 
time disengaging his foot, and will pass the 
loose end of rope which he holds through the 
loop which he receives. The ropes on top of 




Saddle Hitch 
With rope arranged as shown throw deer across saddle, 
enlarge loops A and B around haunches and neck. Bring 
ends C and D together, form bowline knot on end D, pass 
end C through it and tighten. 



98 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

pack will now be spread to properly cover and 
secure the pack, and all slack taken. 

The off side packer now forms a bowline 
knot In the loose end of his rope, the near side 
packer passes his loose end through the bow- 
line loop. To tighten the load the off side 
packer gives slack, while the near side packer 
braces and draws In on loose end of rope, tying 
at bowline loop to secure load. 

THE SADDLE HITCH 

This Is a particularly useful hitch when It 
becomes necessary to sling a deer to a riding 
saddle for transportation to camp. 

Throw the lash rope across the saddle seat, 
an equal division of rope falling to either side. 
Double the rope where It crosses the cinch ring 
and thrust It through the cinch ring In a loop, 
drawing through enough loose rope to form a 
good-sized loop. This should be done on both 
sides. Lay the deer across saddle, with head 
hanging on one side and haunches on the other 
side, slip loop on one side over the deer's head, 
and the loop on the other side over its 
haunches. Take in all slack. Form a bow- 
line loop on end of off side rope, and lay It on 
top of load. This loop should be so adjusted 
as to reach the middle of the top of load. 



SOME PRACTICAL HITCHES 99 

Passing to near side, thread loose end of near 
side rope through the bowline loop. Tighten 
load by pulling on loose end, and tie. 

HOW TO PACK A SICK OR INJURED MAN 

Sometimes It occurs that a member of a party 
is so injured or becomes so 111 as to be helpless, 
and the problem of transporting him upon 
horseback presents Itself. This may be done 
in the following manner upon a crosstree or 
sawbuck saddle: 

Cut two straight sticks three feet long and 
about three Inches In diameter. Fit one on 
either side of saddle snug against the forks. 
Lash securely to forks forward and rear, with 
ends of sticks protruding an equal distance for- 
ward of and back of forward and rear forks. 
It may be well to cut shallow notches in the 
sticks where they rest against the forks. This 
will preclude lateral motion. 

Cut two sticks two feet long and three inches 
in diameter. Place one in front and one In 
rear at right angles to and across top of sticks 
already In position. These cross-pieces are to 
be lashed to position one about two inches 
from forward ends, the other two inches from 
rear ends of lengthwise sticks. Before lashing 
them into position cut notches to receive lash 



loo PACKING AND PORTAGING 

ropes at points of intersection, that any ten- 
dency to slip or work loose may be overcome. 
Now cut two poles six feet long and three 
Inches In diameter. Spread a pack cloth upon 
the ground, and presuming the pack cloth Is 
six feet wide, place a pole on each outer end 
of It. Roll poles, with pack cloth, to center 
until there is a width of twenty Inches between 
the outer edges of poles. In this position lace 
cloth to each pole, or If horseshoe or other 
nails are handy, nail It to poles. Should the 
cloth be wider than length of poles, fold In a 
margin on each end, before rolling. Place lit- 
ter on cross-pieces, the flat of canvas on top. 
Notch, and secure poles of stretcher at front 
and rear to cross-pieces. Lash down litter by 
means of the stirrup hitch. 



CHAPTER XII 

TRAVELING WITHOUT A PACK HORSE 

THE man who travels without a pack 
horse, and carries his full equipment 
and provision supply upon his saddle 
must, of necessity, deny himself many things 
that under ordinary circumstances are deemed 
essentials. He must Indeed travel light, and 
unless he Is well inured to roughing it will be 
content to confine his activities to the warmer 
and less Inclement months. 

The food supply Is the first consideration, 
but nowadays one is certain to come every three 
or four days at the outside upon some point 
where fresh supplies may be purchased. There- 
fore, twelve to fifteen pounds of provisions, 
carefully selected from the ration already sug- 
gested, will meet the utmost needs. In select- 
ing the ration It Is well to eliminate all luxuries. 
It may also be said that canned goods are too 
heavy, where one Is to pack more than a two- 
days' supply, and bacon should be made the 

lOI 



102 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

basis of the meat diet. But then we are con- 
sidering methods of packing and carrying, 
rather than check lists. Limiting the quantity 
to fifteen pounds for a five-days' trip — and this 
Is ample with judicious selection — the individ- 
ual will be left to decide his ration for himself. 

Saddle bags will be found Indispensable and 
in them will be ample room to carry the limited 
toilet articles required, a hand towel, one 
change of light woolen or summer underwear, 
matches, tobacco and rifle cartridges. The 
best shelter is a lean-to tent, m.ade of extra 
light cloth. This should be about seven feet 
long, four and one-half feet high and four feet 
deep. Such a tent will weigh about three 
pounds. 

The cooking outfit will be limited to essen- 
tials. If it can be had an aluminum army or 
" Preston " mess kit, either of which weighs 
about two pounds, a sheath knife with broad 
blade, and a pint cup, will fill all requirements. 
If the mess kit cannot be procured, a small 
frying pan with folding handle, an aluminum 
or enamel plate and a dessert spoon with sheath 
knife, and a pint cup, will do nearly as well. 
In this latter case coffee may be made In the cup. 
A small canteen, which may be hung upon the 
saddle horn, should also be provided. 

A small belt axe that weighs about two 



WITHOUT PACK HORSE 103 

pounds, with sheath, a lariat and a few feet 
of rope will be required. 

A single blanket or a pair of light blankets 
not exceeding five pounds in weight will consti- 
tute the only bedding that can be conveniently 
carried. 

To pack the outfit spread tent flat upon the 
ground, turning the triangular ends In to He 
flat. Fold the tent once, end for end. This 
will make a rectangular pack cloth three and 
one-half feet long and about five and one-half 
feet wide. Fold your blanket to a size a little 
smaller than tent and spread It flat upon the 
tent. Arrange your provision packages on the 
blanket a foot or so from one end and with a 
margin of a foot or more on either side. Fold 
the end of blanket and tent up and over the 
packages and roll up blanket and tent together 
with a band close to the knob in center to hold 
the packages In place and prevent their work- 
ing down toward ends of roll. 

The provisions should be thoroughly pro- 
tected in bags, as previously suggested, in or- 
der that they may not soil the blanket. 

Place the roll directly behind saddle seat 
with the bulge caused by the provision bulk 
resting against saddle seat, the end of roll fall- 
ing on either side, and tie In position by means 
of leather tie strings attached to saddle on each 



104 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

side. The tie should be made in both cases 
just below the bulge in roll. 

The tent will protect blanket and provisions, 
and if judgment has been used in the selection 
and arrangement of provisions the bulk should 
not be unduly or inconveniently large. The 
cooking kit, if enclosed in a canvas case with 
handle, may be lashed to roll by passing lash 
string through the handle and over the top 
and around the kit. A strap above the upper 
loop of the rifle boot and through the belt 
loop on the axe scabbard will hold the axe and 
another buckled around the rifle boot and lower 
end of handle will prevent a slapping motion 
of the handle. 

The poncho, neatly rolled, may be carried 
on the pommel, the center of the roll pressed 
against the back of the horn, the ends drawn 
down and forward of the pommel on either 
side and secured with the leathern tie strings 
attached to the saddle. When not in use 
sweater or Pontiac shirt may be carried with 
the poncho. 

The horse may be picketed with the lariat. 
Hobbles may be made as cowboys make them 
from rope. A strand unraveled from half- 
inch rope brought once around one leg, twisted 
rather tightly, the ends brought around the 
other leg and secured in the twist between the 



WITHOUT PACK HORSE 105 

legs, makes a good hobble. Always fasten 
picket rope or hobble below the fetlock just 
above the hoof — never above the fetlock. 

The outfit here outlined will weigh, includ- 
ing rifle and a reasonable amount of ammuni- 
tion, from forty to forty-five pounds at the 
utmost, and one may be very comfortable with 
It. If game and fish can be caught and are 
to be depended upon, the provisions may be 
cut down to a little flour, bacon, coffee and 
sugar, and the traveler may tarry in the wilder- 
ness for a considerable time. 

One may leave out the tent, and in a warm 
climate even the blanket, relying for shelter 
wholly upon the poncho. An experienced man 
will often limit his cooking outfit to a cup and 
canteen. A good strong reliable horse, a good 
saddle equipment, and enough plain food is all 
one really needs who has experience in wilder- 
ness travel. Such a man can make himself 
comfortable with exceedingly little. 



CHAPTER XIII 

AFOOT IN SUMMER 

ON the portage one may carry a pretty 
heavy pack and think nothing of It, for 
the end of the portage and the relaxa- 
tion of the paddle Is just ahead. The por- 
tage Is merely an Incident of the canoe trip. 

The foot traveler, however, has no canoe 
to carry him and his outfit five or ten miles for 
every mile he carries his outfit. He must carry 
both himself and his outfit the entire distance 
traversed. This Is obvious, and It leads to the 
conclusion that the outfit must be accordingly 
reduced both in weight and bulk. 

How heavy a load may be easily transported 
depends, of course, upon the man, but it is safe 
to say that the Inexperienced will find twenty- 
five pounds a heavy enough burden, and within 
this limit must be included shelter, bed, and 
one week's provisions; though ordinarily the 
tramper will be able to renew his supply of 
provisions almost daily. 

Under all ordinary circumstances a single 
io6 



AFOOT IN SUMMER 107 

woolen blanket weighing not to exceed three 
pounds will be found ample summer bedding. 
A lean-to shelter tent seven feet long, four feet 
wide and four feet high of one of the light 
tenting materials previously described, weighs 
less than three pounds and furnishes ample and 
comfortable shelter. Blanket and tent may be 
carried easily in a roll, the tent on the outside 
to protect the blanket. 

To make the roll spread the tent upon the 
ground, fold the blanket once, end for end, and 
spread it upon the tent, the sides of the blan- 
ket {not folded ends) toward the ends of the 
tent. Fold in ends of tent over blanket and 
roll up. Double the roll and tie together a 
little above the ends with a stout string. The 
roll, dropped over the head with center rest- 
ing upon one shoulder and the tied ends coming 
together near the hip on the opposite side, may 
be carried with little inconvenience. Blankets 
are usually seventy-two Inches wide, therefore 
the roll should be about six feet In length be- 
fore It Is doubled and the ends tied. 

A belt axe will be carried, in a sheath, upon 
the belt, the remaining equipment and provi- 
sions In a Nessmuk pack or a ruck sack. The 
Nessmuk pack, sold by most outfitters. Is about 
12x20x5 Inches in size and made of water- 
proofed canvas. This will easily hold a nine- 



io8 PACKING 'AND PORTAGING 

inch frying pan with folding handle, an alu- 
minum pan 7x3 inches with folding handle, a 
pint cup (if you do not wish to carry the cup 
on your belt), a spoon or two, a cooking knife, 
a dish cloth and a dish towel, together with one 
week's provisions, matches, etc. There will 
still be room for a small bag containing the few 
needed toilet articles and hand towel, and an- 
other small bag containing one change of light- 
weight woolen underwear and two pairs of 
socks. 

The cooking outfit indicated is limited, but 
quite ample. I have done very well for weeks 
at a time with no other cooking utensils than 
a pint cup and a sheath knife. But here we 
cannot go into woodcraft or extreme concen- 
tration of rations and outfit. We are consider- 
ing, rather, comfortable or moderately com- 
fortable outfits and how to pack or transport 
them. 

Tent, blanket, axe, food an'd other equip- 
ment above suggested will, if intelligently se- 
lected, not go beyond the twenty-five pound 
limit. The greatest weight will be in the food, 
and each day will reduce this about two pounds. 
If provisions can be purchased from day to day 
these, of course, need not be carried, and the 
remaining load will be very light indeed. 

I would suggest that a light sweater take the 



AFOOT IN SUMMER 109 

place of a coat as It will b'e found more com- 
fortable and useful and may be carried on top 
of the pack or In the blanket roll, for It will 
rarely be worn save In the evening camp. 

A broad-brimmed felt hat, an outer shirt of 
medium-weight flannel, khaki trousers and 
strong but not too heavy shoes make a practi- 
cal and comfortable costume. Woolen socks 
protect the feet from chafing. Some campers 
like long German stockings, which serve also 
for leggings, and wear thin cotton socks Inside 
them. In selecting shoes take Into consider- 
ation the kind of socks or stockings to be worn, 
and see that the shoes are amply large though 
not too large, for shoes too large are nearly 
as uncomfortable as shoes too small. 



CHAPTER XIV 

WITH SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN 

IN the mode of travel here to be considered 
the voyageur, equipped with snowshoes, 
hauls his provisions and entire camping 
paraphernalia upon a toboggan or flat sled. 
The toboggan (Indian ta'-bas-kan') had Its ori- 
gin In the prehistoric past among the Algonquin 
Indians of northeastern America. It was de- 
signed by them for the purpose of transporting 
goods over trackless, unbeaten snow wastes 
where sleds with runners could not be used, and 
for this purpose It Is unequaled. 

While for our purpose the conventionalized 
toboggan sold by outfitters and designed for 
hill sliding and general sport will answer very 
well, the wilderness model In use by Indians 
and trappers In our northe.rn wilderness Is a 
better designed and preferable type for the 
transportation of loads. 

Various lengths of toboggans are in use, 
each Intended for the particular purpose for 
which It was built. The longest Indian tobog- 

IIO 



SNOPFSHOES AND TOBOGGAN iii 

gan I ever saw was twelve feet In length, but 
from six to eight feet is the ordinary length, 
with a width of nine inches at the tip of the 
curved nose, gradually increasing to fourteen 
inches wide where the curve ends andthesliding 
surface or bottom begins, and tapering away 
to about six inches wide at the heel. The con- 
ventionalized type averages from four to six 
feet in length with a uniform width of about 
fifteen Inches from curve to heel. 

Some three or more crossbars, depending 
upon the length of the toboggan, are lashed at 
intervals across the top, the forward one at 
the beginning of the curve where the nose be- 
gins to turn upward, and on either side of the 
toboggan from front to rear side bar, and 
fastened to the side bars at their ends are side 
ropes. 

Beaver-tall, bear's-paw, or swallow-tall 
snowshoes, of Indian make, are the shapes best 
adapted to the sort of travel we are consider- 
ing. These models are all broad and com- 
paratively short. The web should be of good 
caribou babiche, closely woven for use upon 
dry snow, and indeed for all-around conditions. 
While on wet, soggy snow a coarse web may In 
some respects be preferable It will not com- 
pare In efficiency with the close web on loose 
snow, or for all-around work under all sorts 



112 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

of conditions. Long, narrow snowshoes may 
be very good for racing where the country is 
smooth, but they are not suited to a rough, 
wooded or broken country or to hummocky 
snow. 

The best and most practical, as well as the 
simplest sling or binding for the snowshoe is 
made as follows: Cut from an Indian tanned 
buckskin a thong about half an inch wide and 
thirty inches in length. Thread one end of 
this, from above down, through the web at one 
side of the toe hole, and from the bottom up 
at the opposite side. Pull it through until the 
two ends are even. Draw the thong up at the 
middle, where it crosses the toe hole, to make 
a loop large enough to admit the toe under it, 
but not large enough to permit the toe to slide 
forward against the forward cross-bar. Wrap 
the two ends of the thong around center of 
loop two or three times bringing them forward 
over the top and drawing them under and back 
through the loop. Slip your toes under the 
loop, bring the ends of the thong back, one 
on either side of the foot, and tie snugly in 
the hollow above your heel. 

This sling will hold well, will not chafe the 
foot, and with it the snowshoe may be kicked 
free from the foot or adjusted to the foot in an 
Instant. 



SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN. 113 

Should the thongs stretch in moist weather, 
the sling may be tightened by simply taking an 
additional turn or two (without untying) 
around the toe loop. 

I believe that lamp-wicking would answer as 
well as buckskin thongs, though I have never 
used It because I have always carried an ample 
supply of buckskin. 

The best underclothing for the winter trail 
is good weight — though not the heaviest — 
woolen. Two suits should be carried besides 
the suit worn. Underclothing should not fit the 
body too snugly. It Is better that it should be 
a size too large than an exact fit 

The outer shirt should be of flannel, and of 
good quality, though not too heavy. 

Hudson's Bay Company trappers wear 
good-weight moleskin trousers, almost entirely 
to the exclusion of other fabrics, and I adopted 
them several years ago as superior to any 
other. They are wind-proof and warm and 
are particularly well adapted to the rough 
work of the trail. 

The ordinary coat Is not at all adapted to 
the northern wilderness In winter, for It will not 
protect against drifting snow and driving bliz- 
zard. In Its stead the Eskimo adickey should 
be worn. 

Any seamstress who can cut and make an 



114 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

ordinary work shirt can make an adickey if 
your outfitter cannot supply It. This garment 
is slipped on over the head like a shirt, and 
has a hood attached to draw over the cap as a 
neck and head protection. The neck opening 
is large enough to permit the head to pass 
through It without the necessity of a buttoned 
opening In front, for no matter how closely 
buttoned a garment may be drifting snow will 
find Its way In. In length the adickey reaches 
half way between hip and knees and is made 
circular at the bottom. The hood should be 
of ample proportion to pull over the cap 
loosely, with a drawstring encircling the front 
by which it may be drawn snugly to the face. 
A fringe of muskrat or other fur around the 
face Increases the comfort, the fur acting as a 
protection against drifting snow. While white 
Hudson's Bay Company kersey cloth is a favor- 
ite fabric for this garment. It may be made of 
any woolen blanket duffle or similar cloth. 

Over the kersey adickey another adickey of 
some smooth-surfaced, strong material, prefer- 
ably moleskin, should be worn. This outside 
adickey should of course be just enough larger 
than the kersey or blanket adickey to fit over 
It easily. The adickeys may be worn singly 
or together, according to the demands of the 
weather. 



SNOIFSHOES AND TOBOGGAN. 115 

A Pontlac shirt, to be worn under the adic- 
keys in extremely cold weather, should be In- 
cluded in the outfit. This will serve, too, in 
camp, when the adickeys are laid aside. 

A round cap of fur or heavy cloth provided 
with flaps to turn down over the ears makes 
the best head protection. The hoods of the 
two adickeys, as before stated, should be large 
enough to draw over this. 

Very important indeed Is the question of foot 
dress. Not only must we aim to secure the 
greatest possible freedom and ease in walking, 
but the ever-present danger of frostbite must 
also be guarded against. 

Socks should be of wool, of the home-knit 
variety, and besides the pair worn, three or 
four extra pairs should be carried in the kit. 

Knit socks will not be sufficient protection, 
however, and where two or three pairs are 
worn they are certain to bunch or wrinkle, with 
chafed and sore feet as a result. All Hud- 
son's Bay Company stores keep in stock a 
white fuzzy woolen duffle of blanket thickness. 
If you are making your start from a Post pur- 
chase some of this duffle and have one of the 
women at the Post make you a pair of knee- 
length stockings of the duffle to pull over your 
knit socks, and two pairs of slippers of the 
same material, one just large enough to fit 



ii6 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

over the foot of the long stockings, the other 
just a little larger to fit over all. These should 
be made of proper size, to obviate wrinkles. 
The larger outfitters carry In stock good wool 
dufHe, and will make these to fit properly. 

In crisp, cold weather, when the snow never 
softens or gets moist even under the midday 
sun, buckskin moccasins should be the outer 
footwear. Ordinary leather will freeze stiff, 
stop the proper circulation of blood, and j^ 
certainly lead to frosted feet. The moccasins 
should be made with high tops, reaching above 
the ankles, with buckskin strings to wrap 
around and secure them. Moccasins are light 
to pack, and It Is always well to carry a couple 
of extra pairs, to have on hand in case of 
emergency. 

Leggings of moleskin (or some other strong, 
pliable cloth) large enough to push the foot 
through protect the legs. These should be 
knee high, with a drawstring to secure them 
just below the knee. Ordinary canvas leggings 
will not do. The leggings 7nust be made in 
one piece, without side buttons or other fasten- 
ings, for otherwise snow will work through to 
the great discomfort of the wearer. 

I have a pair of buckskin moccasins sewn to 
legs of harbor sealskin, the hair side of the 
sealskin out. This arrangement is preferable 



^SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN 117 

to separate leggings but sealskin legs are diffi- 
cult to procure. 

Ordinarily I have found one pair of knit 
socks, one pair of the long duffle stockings de- 
scribed above and one pair of the duffle slippers, 
worn inside the buckskin moccasins, quite suffi- 
cient. 

The knit socks may be done away with en- 
tirely and also one pair of duffle slippers if 
rabbit-skin socks are to be had. These are 
worn with the hair next the foot, and are very 
warm and soft. 

In weather when the snow softens and be- 
comes wet at midday, buckskin moccasins will 
not do, for the least moisture penetrates buck- 
skin. In such weather sealskin boots are the 
best foot protection. They are waterproof, 
pliable and light. Sealskin boots for this pur- 
pose have neither soles nor heels. They are 
simply sealskin moccasins with legs, secured 
with drawstrings below the knee. These are 
of Eskimo make, and not generally obtainable 
though they may be purchased in Newfound- 
land. Oil-tanned moccasins, or larrigans, are 
the next best moist-snow foot gear. 

Buckskin mittens with one or two inner pairs 
of mittens of thick wool duffle, will protect the 
hands in the coldest weather. One pair should 
be a little smaller than the other, that it may 



ii8 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

fit snugly into the larger pair without wrinkles, 
and the larger pair of a size to fit in the same 
manner into the buckskin mittens. When the 
weather is too warm for both pairs, one pair 
may be removed. A fringe of muskrat or 
other fur around the wrists of the buckskin 
mittens protects the wrists from drifting snow. 
A pad of rabbit-skin worn across the fore- 
head will protect it from Intense cold. Hunt- 
ing hoods of knit camel's hair worsted are a 
pretty good head protection, particularly at 
night. They cover the whole head except the 
face, and may be drawn up over the chin. 
Mouth and nose must not be covered, or the 
breath will quickly form a mass of ice upon 
the face. 

One caution, though it may seem a digres- 
sion, may be made: If the nose or cheeks be- 
come frosted, as will certainly happen sooner 
or later to one traveling in a very low temper- 
ature, do not rub snow upon the frosted part. 
Snow rubbed on is pretty certain to fracture 
and remove sections of the skin. The Eskimo 
way is to hold or rub the frosted part with 
the bare hand until frost has been removed, 
and Is far superior. 

The clothing outfit above described will be 
found ample. Extra trousers or other extra 
outer garments are not needed. Let all hang 



SNOJVSHOES AND TOBOGGAN 119 

loosely upon the body. Nothing should fit 
snugly. 

A pair of smoked or amber goggles should 
always be Included In the winter outfit. Am- 
ber Is more effective than smoked glass, 
though ordinarily the latter will do. The gog- 
gles should be fastened with a string to slip 
over the back of the head. No metal should 
touch the flesh. 

The best low temperature sleeping bag Is 
one of caribou skin made with the hair Inside. 
Under ordinary conditions, however, a water- 
proofed canvas bag lined with good woolen 
blankets will do as well, though such a bag 
with sufficient blanket lining to give It warmth 
equal to that of the caribou skin bag would 
be much heavier and more bulky than the lat- 
ter. A bag lined with four thicknesses of 
of llama wool duffle (that Is, four thicknesses 
over and four beneath the sleeper), however, 
should not weigh more than ten pounds, and 
would correspond In warmth to one lined with 
blankets weighing twenty pounds. 

An A or wedge tent will be found the best 
model for winter travel. A sheet-Iron tent 
stove with bottom and telescoping pipe will 
make the tent warm and snug. The tent 
should be fitted with an asbestos ring at the 
stovepipe hole as a protection. A pack cloth 



120 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

or tarpaulin will serve as an adequate and 
comfortable tent floor. 

It Is never safe or advisable for one to travel 
in the wilderness alone, for a sprained ankle 
or broken leg in an isolated region would be 
more than likely to result in death. 

In the Hudson Bay country two pounds of 
flour, one pound of fat pork, with baking pow- 
der, tea and sugar, form the daily ration for a 
man. It is well when possible to carry frozen 
fresh meat, free from bone, with a proportion 
of desiccated vegetables to vary the diet. But- 
ter makes a tasty variety to the fat, for it will 
remain sweet at this season. Prunes and choc- 
olate are both worth while. 

Or if the journey is to be extended the 
menu may be simplified by the introduction 
of pemmican and the elimination of other 
articles. Pemmican is the best condensed 
food ever Invented for cold weather work. 
One pound of pemmican and a quarter 
pound of pilot biscuit, as a daily ration, will 
sustain a man at hard work, though it will 
prove a monotonous diet. The above is 
merely suggested as a basis. It may be ex- 
panded or contracted as circumstances require 
without disturbing Its mean value. Let it be 
remembered, however, that ordinary bread 
and other moist foodstuffs will freeze as hard 



SNOWSHOES AND TOBOGGAN 121 

as stone. Jerked venison and desiccated vege- 
tables make tasty and sustaining additions to 
the ration, and will not freeze. 

A man is supposed to be able to haul at good 
speed upon a toboggan a load equal to his own 
weight. Therefore two men, each weighing 
150 pounds, should between them haul 300 
pounds. Camp equipment, tent axes, guns, 
bedding, extra underclothing and all personal 
belongings of both, if proper care be exer- 
cised in selection, should weigh not to exceed 
140 pounds. Add 80 pounds of food, and we 
have 220 pounds, or a maximum load of no 
pounds for each. The tent and general camp 
outfit is indeed sufficient for four men. It is 
presumed that the aluminum cooking outfit 
previously described will be chosen. Some 
eliminations, as, for example, that of the fold- 
ing baker, might easily be made without seri- 
ous loss of comfort. 

To secure the load upon the toboggan, ar- 
range the bags In which it is packed evenly, 
taking care that no part of the load extends 
beyond the sides of the toboggan. Adjust the 
tarpaulin or canvas ground cloth neatly over 
it. Secure one end of your lash rope to the 
side rope on one side at the rear. Bring the 
other end over and under the side rope oppo- 
site. Cross It back over the load and over and 



122 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

under side rope to front of next crossbar, and 
so on to front crossbar, taking slack as you 
proceed. From front to rear criss-cross rope 
in same manner over load and under side ropes, 
forrning diamonds where the rope crosses it- 
self on top of load. Bring the end of rope un- 
der side rope at rear, take in all slack and tie. 



CHAPTER XV 

WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK 

IN considering equipment for dog and 
sledge traveling, we must constantly bear 
In mind the necessity of -keeping down 
weight and bulk. Not long since, while visit- 
ing the establishment of a New York City 
outfitter, I saw an equipment which a sports- 
man ambitious for experience with dogs and 
komatik (sledge) had selected for a month's 
journey which he was about to undertake. Ex- 
clusive of provisions there was enough mater- 
ial to weight down four eight-dog teams. 
Among other things was a specially designed 
tent stove that would have tipped the scales at 
upwards of one hundred pounds. 

The would-be traveler declared with pride 
that he " did not intend to have cold camps." 
It certainly gave me " cold feet " to contem- 
plate his outfit. It was the most ridiculous 
and Impracticable conglomerate aggregation of 
camping material that I have ever seen put to- 
123 



124 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

gether, and I doubt If the would-be traveler 
ever found a sufficient number of dogs at any 
one point to transport It. 

While It Is the aim of every experienced 
camper to obtain the greatest degree of com- 
fort of which circumstances will admit, the 
voyager with dogs cannot hope to carry with 
him the luxuries of a metropolitan hotel, and 
one soon learns how little after all is really 
necessary to make one comfortable. 

How much weight a team of eight good 
dogs can haul depends upon the character of 
the country and the condition of the snow or 
Ice. Under very favorable conditions I have 
seen such a team make good progress with 
twelve hundred pounds. Ordinarily, however, 
eight hundred pounds is a full load, and if 
much rough ice, hilly country or soft snow is 
encountered six hundred pounds will be found 
all too heavy. I have heard of cases, when 
traveling was exceptionally good, of dogs cov- 
ering upwards of one hundred miles a day. 
The biggest day's travel I ever made with dogs 
was sixty miles, but often I have toiled day af- 
ter day, pulling and hauling with the animals at 
the traces, lifting the komatik over rough 
places, or packing a trail for the team with my 
snowshoes, to find myself rewarded with less 
than ten miles when camping time arrived. 



WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK 125 

In selecting outfit the region to be visited 
will be a factor to take into consideration. It 
would be quite Impossible to discuss adequately 
in a single chapter all the phases of dog travel 
to be provided for. We shall therefore leave 
out of consideration polar outfitting, or outfit- 
ting for other unusual work, which the reader 
of this will scarcely be likely to undertake. 

The clothing suggested in the chapter on 
snowshoe and toboggan travel is equally well 
suited to travel with dogs and komatik. Should 
the voyager's ambition, however, draw him 
within the sub-arctic regions or across the Arc- 
tic Circle some additional protection will be 
needed. 

In the far Arctic the natives wear trousers 
of either polar bear skin or caribou skin, with 
an upper garment of caribou skin called, in 
Greenland, the "kulutar;" in Labrador, the 
*' kulutuk." The only difference between the 
adickey and the kulutuk is that the one is made 
of cloth, the other of caribou skin. In Un- 
gava I supplied myself with caribou skin trous- 
ers, which, as is the custom there, I drew on 
over my moleskin trousers in windy or In- 
tensely cold weather. 

The kulutuk takes the place of the moleskin 
adIckey. That is to say, the kersey adickey 
worn under the kulutuk will be found ample 



126 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

protection In any weather, and often the kulu- 
tuk of Itself win be found sufficient. 

Kulutuk and skin trousers are worn hair side 
out. Were they worn with the hairy side In, 
they would accumulate moisture exuded by the 
body, and the moisture would freeze, presently 
transforming the hair into a mass of Ice. A 
friend of mine going to the Arctic for the first 
time as a member of one of Peary's early 
Greenland expeditions, turned his kulutuk In- 
side out and donned It with the hairy side next 
the body. The Eskimos laughed, and resent- 
ing their levity he assured them it was much 
warmer worn in that manner than as they wore 
It. *' No," said one of them, " if It were war- 
mer worn that way the animals would wear 
their fur inside." My friend quickly learned 
by experience the logic of the Eskimo's argu- 
ment. 

Deerskin kulutuk and trousers are not easily 
purchased, though along any coast where seals 
are captured similar garments of sealskin may 
be procured, which, though not equal to deer- 
skin garments, answer very well. The skin of 
the young harbor seal (the ranger seal) is best 
for the purpose, as skins of other species are 
too thick and heavy. When made of sealskin 
the upper garment is called a " netsek." 

I discovered when traveling among them 



WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK ii^ 

that some of the Moravian missionaries of the 
Labrador coast wore a buckskin suit under 
their ordinary trousers and outer shirt. Such 
a suit is much lighter than deerskin trousers 
and kulutuk, and serves nearly as well. It is 
not difficult to purchase buckskin from which 
one may have such a suit made. It Is wind- 
proof and very light. 

All skin garments, Including moccasins, 
should be sewn with animal sinew. Ordinary 
thread will quickly break out and will not do. 
Thread-sewn moccasins are factory-made, and 
will give very little service. 

The types of snowshoes suggested In the 
chapter on snowshoe and toboggan travel are 
the types also best suited to dog and komatik 
work. Long snowshoes would be very much 
in the way when one has to go to the traces and 
haul with the dogs or lift and assist the ko- 
matik over rough places; and this becomes the 
rule rather than the exception as one goes 
North. 

Let me Insist that the web should be of good 
caribou bablche, and not the ordinary rawhide 
used In many of the snowshoes offered for sale. 
The former will not stretch when wet, while 
the latter will stretch and bag so badly as to 
render the snowshoe practically useless. 

It Is well to wrap the frame on either side 



I2B PACKING AND PORTAGING 

where the bablche is drawn around It, with 
buckskin or sealskin. Otherwise even a slight 
crust upon the snow will In time cut the bablche 
strands. Wrapping the snowshoe in this man- 
ner win at least double Its life. 

What was said In reference to tent, smal) 
sheet-Iron stove and general camp and cooking 
outfit In the previous chapter will apply here, 
as well as directions heretofore given for pack- 
ing In waterproof bags. In selecting the sleep- 
ing bag, give first preference to one of deer- 
skin. 

In a barren region where firewood is not to 
be had. It will be necessary to carry an alcohol 
or kerosene burner and stock of fuel. The 
former Is preferable on account of the low 
freezing point of alcohol. Alcohol or oil 
should be secured in tin cases. It is regularly 
put up in this way by dealers. 

In such a region, too, it may be necessary to 
carry snow knives with which to cut blocks of 
snow for the erection of snow igloos as shel- 
ter. These knives resemble somewhat the 
machete. One cannot, however, learn to build 
a snow igloo properly without long practice. 
This phase of the work is merely referred to as 
Interesting; for anyone traveling In a country 
where snow house shelter is necessary will se- 
cure the assistance of a native, who will attend 



WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK 129 

to proper sledge outfitting at the point of de- 
parture. 

On regular lines of dog travel opportunities 
to renew the provision supply will frequently 
occur, and cabins for night shelter will be 
found. Therefore the food outfit will depend 
upon the country to be traversed. Where long 
stretches occur between supply points, however, 
fat pork, pilot bread, tea and sugar should 
form the basis. The very best possible food, 
however, for this work is pemmican, pilot 
bread, tea and sugar. Of course a little coffee 
may be carried, but it is bulky. 

The traveler will make his selection care- 
fully, building around pork, pilot bread and 
pemmican with other articles of food like 
desiccated vegetables from which water has 
been eliminated. Too much salt meat opens 
the door to scurvy, unless sufl^cient variation 
in the way of vegetables, fish, or fresh meat 
is introduced. Dessicated cranberries are an 
excellent preventive. A man can do good 
hard work day in and day out, as already 
stated, upon one pound of pemmican and a 
quarter pound of pilot bread as a daily ration, 
and such a ration offers no danger of scurvy. 

Dog pemmican is the best dog food, and the 
lightest, for dogs will do pretty well upon one 
pound of pemmican each a day. To do well 



I30 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

the animals should be given plenty of fat, 
when pemmlcan is not available, though not a 
clear fat diet, for that will make them sFck. 
Three-quarters of a pound of fat and three- 
quarters of a pound of meat or fish Is an ordi- 
nary ration. Dogs are fed but once a day — at 
night. 

The number of dogs In a team varies, but 
the average team Is composed of seven or 
eight. Eight or nine Is the most economical 
number so far as results are concerned. 

In the Northwest dogs are harnessed tan- 
dem. This is the white man's method. In the 
Northeast they are harnessed fan fashion — 
the Eskimo method. That Is to say, each dog 
has an Individual trace secured to the end of a 
single thong, leading out from the bow of the 
komatik and called the bridle. The Individual 
traces are of various lengths. The dog with 
the longest trace Is the leader of the pack, and 
particularly trained to respond to the driver's 
directions. The other dogs will follow his 
lead. 

For open country and sea Ice travel the Es- 
kimo method Is probably best, as the work is 
more evenly distributed and the driver can al- 
ways tell whether each dog is doing his share 
of the work, but for narrow trails and woods 
travel the tandem method is more practicable. 



WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK 131 

Dogs are good, bad and indifferent. One 
seldom has an opportunity to pick one's dogs 
discrlmlnately, and rarely may one purchase 
them outright unless contracted for a year In 
advance, for the native dog owner seldom 
maintains animals in excess of his requirements 
in the ordinary routine of his life. The 
traveler will usually be able, however, to hire 
a team by employing the owner to drive It, and 
the owner of a team will get much more work 
out of his dogs than a stranger to the dogs 
can hope to do. 

At least a year's experience is necessary to 
enable a white man to handle a dog team with 
anything approaching efficiency, and even then 
one cannot hope to approach the performance 
of an Eskimo. The failure to enlist Eskimos 
as dog drivers has been the real cause of the 
failure of many an Arctic expedition. 

It Is advised, then, that the traveler employ 
at so much per day or for the trip driver and 
dogs. It Is an unsafe experiment to start off 
with a dog team unattended by an experienced 
man. The owner of the team will supply also 
the necessary dog harness, his own dog whip 
and general dog traveling paraphernalia, in- 
cluding the komatlk. 

Sledges or komatiks vary in different locali- 
ties as to width, length and minor methods of 



132 PACKING AND PORTAGING 

construction. The average komatik Is two feet 
wide and ten feet long but as stated, they vary- 
in different localities, a uniform width being 
maintained to suit the local conditions of the 
region In which they are used. For example, 
wide and comparatively short komatiks are 
employed in Quebec, while the Ungava koma- 
tik is but sixteen inches wide. These latter ko- 
matiks are usually fifteen or sixteen feet In 
length, however. The runners stand ten Inches 
high. This Is, In fact, the heaviest and most 
efficient komatik I have ever seen. Each run- 
ner Is made from a single piece of timber and 
is from two and one-half to three inches thick. 
It is designed for the roughest possible use, and 
is, I believe, better adapted to this purpose than 
the Greenland komatik because more substan- 
tially built. The latter Is peculiar in that it has 
upstands at the rear for guiding it. 

Crossbars, extending an inch or so on either 
side of the runners and from one to two inches 
apart, are lashed Into place with rawhide. 
When the rawhide shrinks the komatik be- 
comes firm. Iron fastenings being rigid would 
break too readily, particularly In Intense cold, 
to be reliable. 

The traveler will do well, therefore, to pur- 
chase if he does not hire his komatik at the 
point of departure, as In so doing he will se- 



WITH DOGS AND KOMATIK 133 

cure one of correct design for the region to be 
traversed. 

It is well to have a box made the width of 
the komatik two or three feet long, and about 
fourteen Inches deep to lash upon the rear end 
of the komatik In which cooking utensils and 
a portion of the food supply, as well as odds 
and ends, may be carried. This should be sup- 
plied with a hinged cover, and hook or clasp 
by which the cover may be securely fastened 
down. 

The best lash for securing the load In posi- 
tion Is one of sealskin, though ordinary hemp 
rope will do. Before lashing, the tarpaulin 
should be neatly folded over the top of load to 
protect It. 

One end of the lash Is secured to an end of 
the crossbar at the forward end of the load, 
brought across the load and under the other 
end, then across, skipping a couple of cross- 
bars, and back again skipping a couple of cross- 
bars, thus threading It from side to side under 
the ends of every second or third crossbar to 
the rear bar, where It Is brought across the 
load to the opposite end of this crossbar and 
crisscrossed across the load again to the for- 
ward crossbar to be tied. 

THE END 



O A IVmROOl^ Q ^^^ "^"^ textbooks for 
ll-rlllLyOVyVylVO outdoor work and play 

d, Each book deals with a separate subject 
and deals with it thoroughly. If you want to 
know anything about Airedales an U T ' l N G 
HANDBOOK gives you all you want. If 
it's Apple Growing, another U T^ N G 
HANDBOOK meets your need. The Fisher- 
man, the Camper, the Poultry-raiser, the Auto- 
mobilist, the Horseman, all varieties of out- 
door enthusiasts, will find separate volumes for 
their separate interests. There is no waste space. 

d. The series is based on the plan of one sub- 
ject to a book and each book complete. The 
authors are experts. Each book has been spec- 
ially prepared for this series and all are pub- 
lished in uniform style, flexible cloth binding. 

Ct. Two hundred titles are projected. The 
series covers all phases of outdoor life, from 
bee-keeping to big-game shooting. Among 
the books now ready or in preparation are 
those described on the following pages. 

O U T I N G^P U B LI S H I N G COMPANY 

OUTING K^AGAZINE Vodltin^ 0-fcHFI-N-G HANDBOOKS 

141145 WEST 3C>TH ST NEW YORK 122 S.vflCHIGAN AVE CHICAGO 



THE AIREDALE, by Williams Haynes. The book 
opens with a short chapter on the origin and development of the 
Airedale, as a distinctive breed. The author then takes up the 
problems of type as bearing on the selection of the dog, breeding, 
training and use. The book is designed for the non-professional dog 
fancier, who wishes common sense advice which does not involve 
elaborate preparation or expenditure. Chapters are included on the 
care of the dog in the kennel and simple remedies for ordinary 
diseases. 

'*// ought to be read and studied by e-very Airedale oivner 
and admirer." — Howard Keeler, Airedale Farm Kennels. 

APPLE GROWING, by M. C, Burritt. The various 

problems confronting the apple grower, from the preparation of the 
soil and the planting of the trees to the marketing of the fruit, are 
discussed in detail by the author. Chapter headings are:— The 
Outlook for the Growing of Apples— Planning for the Orchard- 
Planting and Growing the Orchard — Pruning the Trees— Cultivation 
and Cover Cropping— Manuring and Fertilizing — Insects and Dis- 
eases Affecting the Apple — The Principles and Practice of Spraying 
— Harvesting and Storing— Markets and Marketing— Some Hints on 
Renovating Old Orchards— The Cost of Growing Apples. 




THE AUTOMOBILE— Its Selection, Care and Use, 
by Robert Sloss. This is a plain, practical discussion of the 
things that every man needs to know if he is to buy the right car 
and get the most out of it. The various details of operation and 
care are given in simple, intelligent terms. From it the car owner 
can easily learn the mechanism of his motor and the art of locating 
motor trouble, as well as how to use his car for the greatest pleasure. 
A chapter is included on building garages. 

BACKWOODS SURGERY AND MEDICINE, by 

Charles S. Moody, M. D. A handy book for the prudent lover 
of the woods who doesn't expect to be ill but believes in being on the 
safe side. Common-sense methods for the treatment of the ordinary 
wounds and accidents are described — setting a broken limb, reduc- 
ing a dislocation, caring for burns, cuts, etc. Practical remedies for 
camp diseases are recommended, as well as the ordinary indications 
of the most probable ailments. Includes a list of the necessary med- 
ical and surgical supplies. 

The manager of a mine in Nome, Alaska, ^writes as fol- 
loixjs: "/ have been on the trail for years (tnvelve in the 
Klondike and Alaska) and have al-ivays <xvanted just such 
a book as Dr.Moody's Backivuods Surgery and Medicine.' ' 

2 



THE BULL TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. This 
is a companion book to "The Airedale" and "Scottish and Irish Ter- 
riers" by the same author. Its great<?st usefulness is as a guide to 
the dog owner who wishes to be his own kennel manager. A full 
account of the development of the breed is given as also descripti<m 
of best types and standards. Recommendations for the care of 
the dog in health or sickness are included. The chapter heads 
cover such matters as: — The Bull Terrier's History — Training the 
Bull Terrier — The Terrier in Health — Kennelling — Diseases. 

CAMP COOKERY, by Horace Kephart. "The less 

a man carries in his pack the more he must carry in his head", says 
Mr. Kephart. This book tells what a man should carry in both pack 
and head. Every step is traced — the selection of provisions and 
utensils, with the kind and quantity of each, the preparation of game, 
the building of fires, the cooking of every conceivable kind of food 
that the camp outfit or woods, fields or streams may provide — even 
to the making of desserts. Every recipe is the result of hard practice 
and long experience. Every recipe has been carefully tested. It is 
the book for the man who wants to dine well and wholesomely, but 




in true wilderness fashion without reliance on grocery stores or 
elaborate camp outfits. It is adapted equally well to the trips of 
every length and to all conditions of climate, season or country; the 
best possible companion for one who wants to travel light and live 
well. The chapter headings tell their own story. Provisions — 
Utensils — Fires — Dressing and Keeping Game and Fish — Meat — 
Game—Fish and Shell Fish — Cured Meats, etc. — Eggs — Breadstufis 
and Cereals — Vegetables — Soups— Beverages and Desserts. 

**Camp Cookery is destined to be in the kit of e-very tent 
dijueller in the country.** — Edivin Markham in the San 
Francisco Examiner. 

CANOE AND BOAT BUILDING, by Victor 

Slocum. All of us like to think we could build a boat if we had 
to. Mr. Slocum tells us how to do it. Designs are given for the 
various types of canoes as well as full descriptions for preparing the 
material and putting it together. Small dories and lapstreak boats 
are also included. 

3 



CATTLE DISEASES, by B. T. Woodward. Mr. 

Woodward takes up in detail the various common diseases to which 
cattle are liable. His book is designed for the aid of the practical 
farmer in cases where the skilled veterinarian is not necessary. A 
careful description of the various diseases is given and the accepted 
forms of treatment stated. 

EXERCISE AND HEALTH, by Dr. Woods Hutch- 
inson. Dr. Hutchinson takes the common-sense view that the 
greatest problem in exercise for most of us is to get enough of the 
right kind. The greatest error in exercise is not to take enough, 
and the greatest danger in athletics is in giving them up. The Chap- 
ter heads are illuminating. Errors in Exercise — Exercise and the 
Heart— Muscle Maketh Man — The Danger of Stopping Athletics- 
Exercise that Rests. It is written in a direct matter-of-fact manner 
with an avoidance of medical terms, and a strong emphasis on the 
rational, all-round manner of living that is best calculated to bring a 
man to a ripe old age with little illness or consciousness of bodily 
weakness. 

One of the most readable books ever ivritten on physi- 
cal exercise.'' — Luther H. Gulick, M.D., Department 
of Child Hygiene, %iissell Sage Foundation. 




FARM DRAINAGE & IRRIGATION, by W. J.McGee. 

Sometimes it is necessary to spend money to get water on the land; 
sometimes to get it off. Mr. McGee has studied the question from both 
angles in his work for the Department of Agriculture and this book 
will contain his latest and fullest conclusions. Particular attention 
will be paid to the matter of sub-surface irrigation to which little 
heed has been given until lately. 

FENCING, by Edward Breck. Dr. Breck was for many 
years one of the best-known amateur fencers in America and is ac- 
quainted with the best swordsmen of the present day, here and 
abroad. His book is a practical guide for those who wish to know 
the most approved practice in the use of the foil, duelling sword, or 
saber. Suggestions are given on training and condition, as well 
as ou the finer points of the game. 

4 



THE FINE ART OF FISHING, by Samuel G. Camp. 

Combines the pleasure of catching fish with the gratification of fol- 
lowing the sport in the most approved manner. The suggestions 
offered are helpful to beginner and expert anglers. The range of 
fish and fishing conditions covered is wide and includes such sub- 
jects as "Casting Fine and Far Off", "Strip-Casting for Bass", "Fish- 
ing for Mountain Trout" and "Autumn Fishing for Lake Trout". 
The book is pervaded with a spirit of love for the streamside and the 
out-doors generally which the genuine angler will appreciate. A 
companion book to "Fishing Kits and Equipment". The advice on 
outfitting so capably given in that book is supplemented in this later 
work by equally valuable information on how to use the equipment. 

"fVill encourage the beginner and gi've pleasure to the 

expert fisherman.^' — A'^. Y. Sun. 

FISHING KITS AND EQUIPMENT by Samuel G. 

Camp. A complete guide to the angler buying a new outfit. Every 
detail of the fishing kit of the freshwater angler is described, from rod- 
tip to creel, and clothing. Special emphasis is laid on outfitting for 



^^i^^ 




fly fishing, but full instruction is also given to the man who wants 
to catch pickerel, pike, muskellunge, lake-trout, bass and other fresh- 
water game fishes. Prices are quoted for all articles recommended 
and the approved method of selecting and testing the various rods, 
lines, leaders, etc., is described. 

*'A complete guide to the angler buying a neiv out/it.'* — 

— Peoria Herald. 

FISHING WITH FLOATING FLIES by Samuel G. 

Camp. This is an art that is comparatively new in this country 
although English anglers have used the dry fly for generations. Mr. 
Camp has given the matter special study and is one of the few Amer- 
ican anglers who really understands the matter from the selection of 
the outfit to the landing of the fish. His book takes up the process 
in that order, namely— How to Outfit for Dry Fly Fishing— How, 
Where, and When to Cast— The Selection and Use of Floating Flies 
— Dry Fly Fishing for Brook, Brown and Rainbow Trout — Hooking, 
Playing and Landing — Practical Hints on Dry Fly Fishing. 

5 



THE FOX TERRIER, by Williams Haynes. As in 

his other books on the terrier, Mr. Haynes takes up the origin and 
history ot the breed, its types and standards, and the more exclusive 
representatives down to the present time. Training the Fox Terrier 
— His Care and Kenneling in Sickness and Health— and the Various 
Uses to Which He Can be Put — are among the phases handled. 

THE GASOLINE MOTOR, by Harold Whiting 

Slauson. Deals with the practical problems of motor operation. 
The standpoint is that of the man who wishes to know how and 
why gasoline generates poAver and something about the various 
types. Describes in detail the different parts of motors and the 
faults to which they are liable. Also gives full directions as to re- 
pair and upkeep. Various chapters deal with Types of Motors — 
Valves — Bearings — Ignition — Carburetors — Lubrication — Fuel — 
Tavo Cycle Motors. 

GUNSMITHING FOR THE AMATEUR, by Edward 

C Crossman. Mr. Crossman, who is one of the best-known 
rifle experts in the country, takes up in detail the care and repair 
of the gun. He discusses such questions as The Present Develop- 
ment of the Gun — Tools for the Amateur — Rifle Barrels — Smooth 
Bore Barrels — Rifle Actions — Pistol and Gun Actions — Refinishing 
and Processing — The Stock, Sights and Aids to Accuracy. 



Q*- 




THE HORSE— Its Breeding, Care and Use, by 
David Buffuni. Mr. Buffum takes up the common, every-day 
problems of the ordinary horse-user, such as feeding, shoeing, 
simple home remedies, breaking and the cure for various equine 
vices. An important chapter is that tracing the influx ot Arabian 
blood into the English and American horses and its value and limi- 
tations. Chapters are included on draft-horses, carriage horses, and 
the development of the two-minute trotter. It is distinctly a sensible 
book for the sensible man who wishes to know how he can improve 
his horses and his horsemanship at the same time. 

INTENSIVE FARMING, by L. C. Corbett. A dis- 

cussion of the meaning, method and value of intensive methods in 
agriculture. This book is designed for the convenience of practical 
farmers who find themselves under the necessity of making a living 
out of high-priced land. 

6 




LAYING OUT THE FARM FOR 
PROFIT, by L. G. Dodge. One of the 

farmers' great problems is to put every acre of 
his land to the best possible use. This book 
discusses the methods ot obtaining this result. 
The author is an investigator for the Department 
of Agriculture and has given particular atten- 
tion to this subject. 



THE MOTOR BOAT— Its Selection, Care and Use, 
by H. W. Slauson. The intending purchaser is advised as to the 
type of motor boat best suited to his particular needs and how to 
keep it in running condition after purchased. The Chapter headings 
are: Kinds and Uses of Motor Boats— When the Motor Balks- 
Speeding of the Motor Boat— Getting More Power from a New Motor 
—How to Install a Marine Power Plant- 
Accessories — Covers, Canopies and Tops — 
Camping and Cruising — The Boathouse. 



NAVIGATION FOR THE AMA- 
TEUR, by Capt. E. T. Morton. A short 

treatise on the simpler methods of finding 
position at sea by the observation of the sun's 
altitude and the use of the sextant and chro- 
nometer. It is arranged especially for yachts- 
men and amateurs who wish to know the simpler formulae for the 
necessary navigation involved in taking a boat anywhere off shore. 
Illustrated with drawings. Chapter headings: Fundamental Terms — 
Time— The Sumner Line— The Day's Work, Equal Altitude, and 
Ex-Meridian Sights — Hints on Taking Observations. 




OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY, by Julian A. Dimock. 

A solution of all the problems in camera work out-of-doors. The 
various subjects dealt with are TheCamera— Lens and Plates— Light 
and Exposure — Development — Prints and Printing — Composi- 
tion — Landscapes — Figure Work — Speed Photography — The 
Leaping Tarpon— Sea Pictures— In the Good Old 
Winter Time— Wild Life. The purpose of the book 
is to serve as a guide not only for the man or 
woman who has just taken up the use of the 
camera, but also for those who have progressed 
far enough to know some of the problems that 
confront them. 




OUTDOOR SIGNALLING, by Elbert Wells. Mr. 

Wells has perfected a method of signalling by means of wig-wag, 
light, smoke, or whistle which is as simple as it is effective. The 
fundamental principle can be learnt in ten minutes and its applica- 
tion is far easier than that of any other code now in use. It permits 
also the use of cipher and can be adapted to almost any imaginable 
conditions of weather, light, or topography. 

*'I find it to be the simplest and most practical book on 
signalling published.'" — Frank H. Schrenk, Director of 
Camp Belgrade. 

' * One of the finest things of the kind I hanje e^ver seen. I 
belie've my se'ven year old boy can learn to use this system , 
and I knoiv that nve ivill find it fvery useful here in our 
Boy Scout 'work.'' ^ — Lyman G. Haskell, Physical Direc- 
tor, r. M. C. A., Jacksonville, Fla. 



PACKING AND PORTAGING, by Dillon Wallace. 

Mr. "Wallace has brought together in one volume all the valuable 
information on the different ways of making and carrying the 
different kinds of packs. The ground covered ranges from man- 
packing to horse-packing, from the use of the tump line to throwing 
the diamond hitch. The various chapters deal with Packing and 
the Outfit — The Canoe and Its Equipment — Camp Equipment for 
the Canoe Trip — Personal Equipment — Food — The Portage— Travel 
with Saddle and Pack Animals — Saddle and Pack Equipment — 
Adjusting the Pack — Some Practical Hitches— Traveling Without a 
Pack Horse — Afoot in Summer — With Snowshoes and Toboggan — 
With Dogs and Komatik. 

PRACTICAL POULTRY KEEPING, by R. B. Sando. 

In effect a comprehensive manual for the instruction of the man 
who desires to begin poultry raising on a large or small scale and to 
avoid the ordinary mistakes to which the beginner is prone. All 
the statements are based on the author's own experience, and special 
care has been taken to avoid sensationalism and exaggeration. The 
general contents are Poultry Keeping and Keepers — Housing and 
Yarding — Fixtures and Equipment — Choosing and Buying Stock — 
Foods and Feeding — Hatching and Raising Chicks— Poultry Diseases. 
Illustrated. 

8 



PROFITABLE BREEDS OF POULTRY, by Arthur 

S. Wheeler. Mr. Wheeler discusses from personal experience 
the best-known general purpose breeds. Advice is given from the 
standpoint of the man who desires results in eggs and stock rather 
than in specimens for exhibition. In addition to a careful analysis 
of stock— good and bad— and some conclusions regarding housmg 
and management, the author writes in detail regarding Plymouth 
Rocks, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, Rhode Island Reds, Mediterraneans 

and the Cornish. , r , , u l 

''This is an invaluable book for those luho avould make 
a success in the poultry business.''— Grand %apids, 
(Mich.) Herald. 
RIFLES AND RIFLE SHOOTING, by Charles 

Askins. A practical manual describing various makes and mechan- 
isms, in addition to discussing in detail the range and limitations in 
the use of the rifle. Among other things, the chapters deal with 
The Development of the American Breech-Loading Rilie—bingle 
Shot Rifle— Lever- Action Repeater— Pump-Action Repeater and 




Military Bolt-Action— Double Rifle— Rifle and Shotgun— Self-Loading 
Rifle— Rifle Cartridges, Miniature and Gallery— Small Game— 
Match-Rifle Cartridges and Their Manipulation— High Power, 
Small Bore Hunting Cartridges— Big Bore, High Power Cartridges 
—Trajectory, Accuracy, and Power of Hunting Cartridges— Weight 
of Rifle and Recoil— Stocks and Triggers— Rifle Sights— Positions 
for Rifle Shooting— Outdoor Target Shooting,— Quick Firing and 
Running Shots— Fancy Snap and Wingshooting— Two-Hundred Yard 
Sharpshooting. 

SCOTTISH AND IRISH TERRIERS, by Williams 

Haynes. This is a companion book to "The Airedale", and deals 
with the history and development of both breeds. For the owner 
of the dog, valuable information is given as to the use ot the 
terriers, their treatment in health, their treatment when sick, the 
principles of dog breeding, and dog shows and rules. 

''The happy o-wner of a terrier for the first time could 
not go ivrong if he follo-ivs Mr. Haynes' ad'vice."— 
'Brooklyn Standard Union. 
9 



SPORTING FIREARMS, by Horace Kephart. This 

book is the result of painstaking tests and experiments. Practically 
nothing is taken for granted. Part I deals with the rifle, and Part 
II with the shotgun. The man seeking guidance in the selection 
and use of small firearms, as well as the advanced student of the 
subject, will receive an unusual amount of assistance from this work. 
The chapter headings are: Rifles and Ammunition — The Flight of 
Bullets — Killing Power — Rifle Mechanism and Materials — Rifle 
Sights — Triggers and Stocks — Care of Rifle — Shot Patterns and 
Penetration — Gauges and Weights — Mechanism and Build of 
Shotguns. 




TRACKS AND TRACKING, by Josef Brunner, 

After twenty years of patient study and practical experience, Mr. 
Brunner can, from his intimate knowledge, speak with authority on 
this subject. "Tracks and Tracking" shows how to follow intelli- 
gently even the most intricate animal or bird tracks. It teaches 
how to interpret tracks of wild game and decipher the many tell- 
tale signs of the chase that would otherwise pass unnoticed. It 
proves how it is possible to tell from the footprints the name, sex, 
speed, direction, whether and how wounded, and many other things 
about wild animals and birds. All material has been gathered first 
hand; the drawings and half-tones from photographs form an im- 
portant part of the work, as the author has made faithful pictures of 
the tracks and signs of the game followed. The list is: The White- 
Tailed or Virginia Deer — The Fan-Tailed Deer — The Mule-Deer — 
The Wapiti or Elk — The Moose — The Mountain Sheep — The 
Antelope — The Bear — The Cougar — The Lynx — The Domestic Cat 
—The Wolf— The Coyote— The Fox— The Jack Rabbit— The Vary- 
ing Hare — The Cottontail Rabbit — The Squirrel — The Marten and 
the Black-Footed Ferret— The Otter— The Mink— The Ermine— The 
Beaver — The Badger — The Procupine — The Skunk — Feathered 
Game — Upland Birds — Waterfowl — Predatory Birds. This book is 
invaluable to the novice as Avell as the experienced hunter. 

'^This book studied carefully, njuill enable the reader to 
become as ivell 'versed in tracking lore as he could by 
years of actual experience.^' — Leiviston Journal. 

10 



WING AND TRAP-SHOOTING, by Charles Askins. 

The only practical manual in existance dealing with the modern 
gun. It contains a full discussion of the various methods, such as 
snap-shooting, swing and half-swing, discusses the flight of birds 
with reference to the gunner's problem ot lead and range and makes 
special application of the various points to the different birds com- 
monly shot in this country. A chapter is included on trap shooting 
and the book closes with a forceful and common-sense presentation 
of the eti([uette of the field. 

"// is difficult to understand hoiv anyone ix^ho takes a de- 
light in hunting can afford to he ivithout this valuable 
book.^^ — Chamber of Commerce Bulletin, Portland, Ore. 
''This book •tuill prove an invaluable manual to the true 
sportsman, njohether hebe atyro or expert.'" --'Book Ne-ivs 
Monthly. 

''Its closing chapter on field etiquette deserves careful 
reading.'' — A'^, Y. Times. 

THE YACHTSMAN'S HANDBOOK, by Herbert L. 

Stone. The author and compiler of this work is the editor of 
"Yachting". He treats in simple language of the many problems 
confronting the amateur sailor and motorboatman. Handling 
ground tackle, handling lines, taking soundings, the use of the lead 
line, care and use of sails, yachting etiquette, are all given careful 
attention. Some light is thrown upon the operation of the gasoline 
motor, and suggestions are made for the avoidance of engine 
troubles. 




OCT 18 1912 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



IliJ JlilJliUilJMiUilUiiJi jjllll 
002 910 698 8 



